And then the work begins with bed leveling and the other cool stuff 
I have a prusa MK3.
I REALLY recommend a .8mm nozzle for structural prints. Literally my stuff is more than twice as strong than with a .4mm nozzle.
I’m 3D printing ridable trucks, I’ve literally probably gone through 5kg of filament just making truck prototypes that we’re getting on and riding.
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$180 shipped ender 3(gearbest) with $35 direct drive all metal extruder upgrade and a dry box . It can print all sorts of filament(including nylon). I have the main printer inside an Ikea lack table based enclosure and the dry box on top of it.
@Agniusm has a whole print farm of ender3s, I believe.
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No hands on with the laser engraving or cutting but know in both cases you need some amount of air flow through the work area (usually the machines are in a box with fans like a desktop computer). If there isn’t air flow the smoke from the burning material can fly up into the lense the laser uses for focusing and apparently not a cheap part (think $30-40 but worse the laser could melt the smoke covered lense or start it on 
). Agree with the previous statement about rigidity on larger machines as well the smaller the better when it comes to rigidity and something cutting relatively flat pieces could be a lot more rigid by just taking away the unneeded z height for that use case. Cool big ass printer anyways though.
I have been reccomending the Prusa i3 MK3 for the longest time, my friend has one and gets great prints out of it.
I use the Ultimaker S5, too pricey for most and probably not worth the $$$
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I saw it in ur videos.
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I built the kit too. I think it took me about 14hr being super careful. Worth doing it though.
And yes that was just the beginning of the futzing 
Did kit version as well, did it over 2 days took my time with it and didn’t have any issues, but was my second time building a diy printer and first one was far more barebones, acrylic frame originally and threaded rod made up most of the machine. The levelling calibration basically happens through a wizard and test printing while adjusting the offset value but basically do it once and good, it probes and does mesh levelling itself before each print.
You would have lead problems with prusa. Get a kit, great for getting to know 3d printing deeper
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I have a cr-10 and a prusa mk3. I end the prusa 90 percent of the time.
I’ll get a Prusa i3 MK3S with the MMU 2.0 Kit
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And 0.8 resolution?
Generally you should avoid going over 3/4 of your nozzle size in resolution.
So 0.6mm is the max I would go with a 0.8mm nozzle.
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I’m using an Ender 3 with a direct drive extruder and a few other upgrades. If you want to print flex materials like TPU I would strongly reccomend the upgrade.
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Well, resolution is really more layer height a lot of the time, which I usually have a .48, for stregnth.
but you can easily keep the layer height at .15 if needed. Or, you have perimeters set to .15 and the infill at .45.
With a .8mm nozzle you won’t get details like inlaid text very well, but for your average Eskate 3D printable, risers, mounts, cases, thats all well within the resolution of .8mm nozzles. Cogged pully’s might be pushing it, that may be more suited for a .6, but I’ve never tried so its possible even that it can pull off.
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Can you talk about your setup a bit?
Ender 3 all day.
Although recently I’ve been struggling with my prints not sure if it’s just settings or the firmware upgrade I did.
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Using a Makergear M2E with a .5mm steel nozzle. It’s been pretty awesome so far. Prints everything I put in it. It was pricey considering some small issues that made me remake the way the bed is secured to the heat plate. I also purchased a printbite+ bed that’s made warping a thing of the past. In retrospect I should have probably bought a Prussia but the M2E is all metal and it prints while my boat is rocking without skipping a step. So I’m still happy in the end. I’m also pretty sure it’s getting close to paying for itself soon.
Ender 3 as well, such an easy printer to setup.
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