3D-Printed Pneumatic Rims For Win and Fitment | Wheels | Hubs

I didn’t see a thread existing specifically about 3D-printed rims and making them, so I started this one.

So originally this got started by the need to get bigger backtires for my project drift trike, as I didn’t want to use original hard plastic wide ones meant for doing skids. I then discovered that the original bearings had the same OD as the ones in the superstar hubs (28mm), so I fit my extra hubs and wheels on the back of it. Trampa axles are 12mm dia. and the back axle on the trike is 15mm dia.

But to be honest, they look kinda dinky with their size. So I then started to look bigger wheels to get there. This lead me to wheelbarrow wheels, after finding a very nicely priced unit it was time to figure out how to get it on the axle, as the supplied bearing solution was for bigger sized axle and clearly made down to a price.


It took some wrestling moves to get that one-piece rim out of the tire. And turned out it didn’t need to be destroyed and could be removed without destructive violence from it’s prison, but I did mess up the first rim before I figured this out…

But the price was very right at 5,90€ for the complete wheel with inner tube, so I bought two for prototyping.

This then lead to the question: “why not 3D-print the rim?”. So I got prototyping, along this line I also thought why not try to fit the wheelbarrow tires to my board? I could at the same time optimize the bearing position/spacing to get more/better support for the wheel side drive gear. As the picture below demonstrates the un-ideal bearing setup for the drive wheels. This is a mock-up of my current setup with the Superstar hubs and trampa MTB trucks.



The problem with the original setup for the driven wheels is that the inner bearing gets most of the load and acts as a pivot point, so there is any imbalance on loading of the drive gear it can cause a slight wobble on the wheel.

I decided that buying some beefier bearings would be a good idea to help the 3D-printed rims take the forces more easily, as the 3D-printed mechanical part has more area to distribute the associated forces, also beefier bearings are likely to last longer and are able to handle the beating they get during esk8ing (bigger balls). Below is a picture with the original wheel bearings for the superstar hubs and trike wheels and the bigger replacements for them. The bigger bearings were either SKF or NSK around 1,7-2,8€ ea.


So I then prototyped some rims and figured out how beefy I needed to make them and below are some of the results. I tested a 3 spoke design, but decided to go with a 5 spoke design as it more evenly splits the load in the shorter spaces between the rim bolts.

Not shown is the very first prototype that bolted together, pumped the wheel to my ride pressure (4 bar) and then promptly exploded by ripping the tire lip off from the other side, shooting the lip off the high speeds and then the inner tube exploded after the tire was able to let it out from the side without lip. Needless to say, I beefed up the lip for the next versions.

Size comparison between the OG bearing and one that will be replacing it.


Simple 5 bolt (M4x40) pattern with the nuts embedded into the 3D-print afterwards.

The tires that I use on the superstar hubs are 200x50 and the wheelbarrow tire that I’ll try to get to fit is 260x85, so they are bigger and wider. Fitting them to the board is gonna be a tight fit.

“Don’t talk to me or my son again”

The wheelbarrow tire just about fits without wheelbite at full lean.

I’m planning on printing the rims with PETG once I have the final design figured out. I’m using PLA for these test parts.

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Didn’t want to squeeze everything into a massive first post, so I’ll continue in the second one.

The wheelbarrow rim just about works for the front truck, but let’s just say there’s a slight clearance problem trying to put it on the back truck and trying to get a gear and belt onto it… It even slightly rubs against the motor mounting plate.

Not a lot of space to get that belt going… Or a gear for the belt for that matter…

So what to do, what to do…
Well, isn’t it clear honestly?
Time to take innovation from the car and stance community.

Time to put some negative offset on this B***H!

So currently all the prototype rims are with zero offset, aka the tire sits right in the middle of the bearings, but as we are 3D-printing the rim, we have some flexibility in it’s mechanical design that we can make, so let’s put some negative offset and move the tire towards the outer bearing.

These are the two halves of the rim with 18mm negative offset. The tire should be sitting roughly on top of the outer bearing. I’m not 100% it’ll be enough but it seems awfully lot based on how it looks, so I’ll test this version out first, before making going further.

Printer is printing away and I’ll update more this thread as I get stuff done.

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@mishrasubhransu has some fire printed 2.9" hubs with kegel core.

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These?




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Was actually referring to these Boardnamics M1 Gear Drive + Other News

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I noticed in your slicer preview that you are able to see the mesh polygons. You can adjust your STL export settings to get the mesh to a higher resolution, that will make the surfaces smoother (and rounder) ensuring you get better contact areas.

Awesome project btw, might try some 3d printed rims in the future too, especially since i’m ordering some nylon soon.

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Do note that I’m using Blender and not Fusion360/Solidworks and the models are how I have modeled them. If there’s a need for high segment sections they’ll get it, but lower priority areas might get lower segment count.

Let’s just say modeling things in Blender is a bit more “freeflowing/artistic” experience.

What kind of a board do you have?

I’ve been running mine now for the third year and have gotten around 10 000 km ridden on it in total. I do normal tarmac, light off-roading and sometimes slow technical off-roading, so I’m interested to test some bigger wheels, especially for bigger/higher rock and root clearance.

It’s currently having a bit of a winter cannibalization for other projects parts wise, but I want to test those 3d-printed rims and big tires…

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This is super awesome dude. Have you out miles on these? Very happy to see someone working on “large” diameter hubs!

What is the inner diameter of the tires you’re fitting?

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I just started prototyping these this week, so no ridden distance yet. Need to figure out what kind of rims I need to make to make them fit the board.

The wheelbarrow tires are sized 3.00-4 , which means the middle hole is 4" across and then there is 3" tire on both sides after that and they are 85mm width wise, so pretty chunky.

I’m currently modeling the rim to be 98.5mm dia. for the middle part with a 120mm lip dia.

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Perf! Can’t wait to see this tested. Let me know when you’re close to a final design. I’d be happy to help test these for you. @surfnacho can print in nylon for me and I need some nice rims for my new 3" wide tires. (4" inner diameter)

The mounting holes pattern is Trampa? I do use mbs pulleys but maybe I can adjust the spacing myself

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Damn thats impressive that you use blender. I did some modeling in maya and blender before but never with real dimensions. Fusion360 also has some modeling features btw, might be interesting for you.

I also ride a MTB, this is my ride :blush:

10k is insane though, I think ive did 1.5k now. I can see where you are coming from with the larger tires, they would definitely help for rougher trails.

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Got the new 18mm negative offset rims out of the printer this morning and tested the fit.

Here’s the -18mm offset rim on the left and the zero offset rim on the right.




At least the wheel now has space to spin without rubbing against the motor mount plate.





But it still needs a couple millis more negative offset as the motor axle hits the tire and that’s without the gear on, it also limits the movement on how close you can move the motor, so you have less space to fine tune the belt tension with the motor distance.

Looks already pretty deep, but as a prototype test piece, I’ll do one with 5-7mm more offset.


The big wheels do look pretty impressive on the board I gotta say. Most likely I would run something like -8mm offset for the front rims, just to get a little bit more playroom for the wheels to turn and not risk a wheelbite and based on the current -18mm rim, a bit more for the back rims, to be able to fit the gears and belts without too much clearance issue.

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So I increased the negative offset from -18mm to -24mm for the next rim prototype. Apart from a slight extrusion problem towards the end that caused bad enough layer filling and adhesion that the very end of the back side rim cracked off, they came out quite nicely. That’s why the back bearing is half exposed.

But at least we have enough clearance now to get the motor on with the drive gear and belt, so mission accomplished, now to figure out the additional mechanical design to be able to fit a gear to it.





Guess I’ll pickup two more wheels next week, so I can get them on the front also.

EDIT: I’ll testing the gear attachment with my current 68T HTD5M gear, that uses the superstar rim bolt hole pattern to attach to the rim. I’ll probably make a bigger gear later, as this increase in the wheel diameter results in a lower torque, higher speed gear ratio with the same gear tooth counts.



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It’s on and it fits.

I was running the old rims and tyres with a ~190mm effective wheel dia. and 20:71 gear ratio, giving a final drive of ~168mm / motor revolution. I checked what gears I had for this setup, so I could stay near that final drive number, so I’m assuming 250mm effective wheel dia. and then with 16:74 gear ratio it should end up as ~170mm / motor revolution, so the torque and speed should stay about the same.

I remodeled the back rim to have a mounting hole pattern that is identical to the superstar rim bolts, as I can now use directly my superstar wheel gears on this.

Needed to space out the gear a little bit, so I printed little spacers.



I also went and got 2 more wheels today, so I guess it’s time to get these big ones mounted on all 4 corners and go for a test ride.


Also, here’s the pic of first prototype where the rim got ripped/blown off once I had pumped the inner tube up to riding pressure. This was with a very low solid outer layer number and low infill, so it was faster to get it printed, but I then strengthened the rim in the future iterations and beefed up the solid layer amount and infill percentage. It’s no joke how much energy/force there is stored in the pressured air, especially if it’s able to explosively escape.

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Ever thought of printing in Carbon reinforced Nylon ?

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Not really, as my current printer is an old work horse for basic filaments (PLA, PETG) and I’ve usually just beefed up the parts in the model and printing settings to be able to stand up to the stresses.

The biggest downside is that the 3D-printed parts are heavier. The -18mm rim is a pretty beefy unit at ~210grams bolted together with no bearings, but does feel really solid in the hand.

Maybe the slimming down phase would be more of a priority once I’ve been able test the proto pieces in-field and want to start optimizing the design mechanically. I mean it doesn’t make sense to print the part with a more exotic material with higher strength, if the cheaper and more available stuff works as well. Now if you were to optimize the design to be lighter and the basic plastic wouldn’t be able to handle the stresses anymore, then it would make more sense to switch to the more expensive material that might be harder to print, if the weight saving + print time optimization is worth it.

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awesome! I have a new found respect for printed Esk8 parts. The untold hours behind a post with a mechanical, working part are unreal :+1:

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When I started building my first boards that ran on PU tires, I had problems with 3d-printed drivetrain gears wearing quickly (I now run metal gears on motor end and 3d-printed ones on wheels), but once I switched to Pneumatics on my 4th build that issue pretty much went away, as the bigger wheel gear had enough teeth to distribute the torque across large enough amount of teeth so that the stress for one teeth got pretty low. That really increased the durability for the gears and that was with PLA filament, which had annoyingly low glass transition temperature, the teeth did start to deform over time and ride distance. My current gears printed with PETG last for thousands of kilometers and it’s super easy to print replacements or generate custom teeth amount and mounting hole patterns.

The best thing about 3d-printing is just the speed at which you can iterate your designs. I started with the first rim prototype a week ago and I already have iterated enough that I have a design that is ready for field testing. Biggest limiting factor has been the printing speed.

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The rear is ready for testing.

I’m running out of filament and I only bought 5 bearings in total for testing, so I need more of them as well, but I think I’ll do a little test ride with the rear being as shown.

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Drag car, hell yeah. Reminds me of @MoeStooge’s logo.

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