3D printables for esk8

Finishing a print in place box enclosure for esc’s.

I do not like this design.

Here is my take, significant volume reduction. My dumb rail solution to mount.

100% mock up print in place box with some mods. Esc seated on aluminum

75% mock up. Tpu gasket. All Hinges, top and bottom print in one go. It’s a good design will post original link later. I’ll add counter sunk M4 fasters in corners on top surface of box to prevent the concerns you’re thinking of typing right now.

9 Likes

Imagine that. Fresh out of tpu in that size. If only I had a digital model of that gasket, and a hot glue gun I could mount on a motion stage.

2 Likes

Didnt like the way the phase leads on the SKP solo exit over the top of the esc housing, requiring additional height, so ive made one that had wiring channels that run through the top housing. Reduces required vertical clearance by a good 3mm or so (and also looks cleaner imo)


17 Likes

Nice, looks great.

2 Likes



The box, full size with rails and heat set inserts. And a fantasy heatsink in PC for funsies.

I printed the box in bambu high temp nylon. I don’t really like the material, not to mention the cost.

5 Likes

Design looks great! Can you share more about what you don’t like about the PA-HT? I’ve just been using the Bambu PETG-CF for so much and it’s been great.

1 Like

Correction, the box pictured is bambu petg cf. I do like that material a lot. No warp, sticks to pei bed with no glue or bullshit.

I tried the nylon from bambu, printed the wrong damn file. Maybe the material is slightly wet, but not by much. My dry box, desiccant game is on point.

The 45 deg overhangs were drippy. 1/2 kilo is 50$usd, I have anxiety opening a dry box it sleeps in.

When I first started 3d printing, my goal was nylon or nothing. I wanted functional gears. What a hassle, petg, pctg, and maybe PP with gf or cf will get you 90% the performance with half the prep effort, failed prints, and cost.



6 Likes

I love the PETG-CF. Just did a simple Davega baseplate with integrated M3 nuts for my board out of it. Looks like your box design worked out nicely - I need to learn how to do print-in-place hinges and latches and stuff. Very handy.




3 Likes


So close, that was almost a jinx, you owe me a soda situation.

Print in place box was a file from a savant on printables.com. I boolean +/- it to an inch of its manifold integrity.

3 Likes

Lol there you go. How does the picatinny-type rail hold up so far? Seem like a pretty strong fit?

Did you capture the nuts inside the print like a good baby?

1 Like

Yes sir! My first time doing it actually. Took a couple test prints to get the tolerance just right but it worked out perfectly.

Edit, forgot I had a pic

4 Likes

4 perimeters? Thats a bit overkill for a simple baseplate, no? :smiley:

The print looks very nice though.

3 Likes

Yeahhh pretty overkill, but it also works as an anti-sink since the deck hardware goes through it. Figured I’d rather go overkill than the other way around.

Oh I didn’t notice the truck hardware goes through, In that case 4 perimeters is a good choice.

1 Like


TPU assisted street art.

4 Likes


5 Likes


8 Likes

Messed around a bit today with shredlight mounts for SRB 3-links. Came up with a 2 piece design for ease of printing (hardly any supports). Uses one M4x10 screw and nut for the clamp and right now I used 2 M4x8 joining the 2 pieces together… I was going to use the screws forced into smaller holes with glue, but I might try and integrate metal nuts inside the print… I’ll see what I can figure out. Anyways, so far so good. Will test full turning clearance and such once board is back together and if they work I’ll print out of PETG-CF.








22 Likes

After the design has been perfected, you should sell these!

2 Likes