Egtscs
December 13, 2023, 4:45am
#1213
I don’t see this having been discussed yet here, so apologies if this is old news for many but I stumbled across this:
Would this be a worthwhile addition to the wiki here?
A revival of the 3D Models Wiki Thread.
For now it’ll be an almost 1:1 copy with smaller changes to start with. We might need to comb through all files to rework and or archive them out of the wiki if they are just not used anymore
Please edit this wiki with your 3d Models
This is a community editable wiki of 3D models for electric skateboarding. This includes but is not limited to 3d printables and CNC files. The intent is to have a reference of useful models for the community to use when bu…
I recognize it would be hard to do in a way that fits the proper format but it certainly seems like a useful addition to that resource.
3 Likes
AlexB
December 16, 2023, 9:59pm
#1214
Nothing fancy, but here are a couple risers for Newbee Triplelinks. One is solid, the other has a cutout for a Davega cable.
https://www.printables.com/model/683002-newbee-triplelinks-riser
3 Likes
Those little jumper wires are available all over the place, I have hundreds laying around. Never thought to make a housing for them, I usually just cram them into pins and hot glue.
4 Likes
This is great! Good find, maybe I didn’t look hard enough.
1 Like
I’m always digging around my purse looking for the dang shredlights. Fed up, drew up and posted a few simple organizers.
8 Likes
AlexB
January 4, 2024, 10:21pm
#1218
Great idea, especially while charging on one of those 4-banger USB-C cable things.
Pecos
January 5, 2024, 6:10pm
#1219
Been working on a riser for matrix 3 trucks and a big one at that as im using the them on a LSSS deck with the double deep under slung enclosure. Ill put it on thingaverse when its done but I wanted to share some progress pics as i go through revisions
Integrates some motorcycle lights and a button in the latest iteration
8 Likes
Another Shredlight mount I made for the bullbars on the AceDeck Z1
Shredlights' square truck mounts didn't work on this board with the bullbars installed, I attemped to use their round hanglebar mounts but after a couple miles, the light were pointed directly down on the ground. This is what I came up with...
11 Likes
Grazza
January 10, 2024, 2:20am
#1221
Folks got any tips for printing these bigger wheel pulleys? And is it a bad idea re failures, safety, etc.? Keen to try some different gear ratios but don’t want to fork out heaps on pulleys just testing
1 Like
Yes correctly printed pulleys work great. I’ve been running some I printed with ASA for a while now and they seem to have good wear characteristics. ASA is a pain to print. ABS is a bit friendlier. I might try that next.
AlexB
January 11, 2024, 5:18pm
#1223
Some Newbee Triplelinks tunnel risers I threw together quick. Step files included so you can have your dirty way with them.
3 Likes
@BigBen @eBoosted @tomiboi @jamie @longhairedboy (&anyone else) By any chance, do you have a diagram, sketch, and/or CAD model of a tayto/jet spud deck?
Any idea where I could get more info, aside from CADing it from scratch?
Figured someone in this thread could be knowledgeable about this, so crossposted here.
looks like @abusfullofnuns has a few decks on hand. Maybe ask him to "scan it with an iPhone’s Lidar feature?
1 Like
Ah true, that’s another option. I’ll look into it
Facko
January 16, 2024, 8:47pm
#1227
3 Likes
Jbrk
January 24, 2024, 5:13am
#1228
Anyone make fenders that attach to evolve style mounting for 6-8 inch tires?
AlexB
March 13, 2024, 4:44pm
#1229
Uploaded some files for Newbee 4GS drive spacers to go between hub and MBS drive adapter plate in case you have tires that hang over the hub enough to rub on the drive (9" MBS tires, etc.)
https://www.printables.com/model/804155-newbee-4gs-2024-mbs-wheel-adapter-spacers
4 Likes
I designed this Pulley, works with Kegel core and uses a 608zz flanged bearing you can buy on amazon to support the bearing from belt tension. Fyi you need longer truck axles like the TB 218 or evolve trucks. Been gone since 2019 but its nice to be back.
3 Likes
Dinnye
May 3, 2024, 12:57am
#1231
MBS rockstar II pro XL 3D printed wideners
If anyone wants to print wideners for the MBS rockstar II pro XL hubs / rims here are the files, I just realised I still haven’t shared them yet:
The step file for 20mm if you want to make your own version
mbs_wide_20.step (75.4 KB)
The STLs from 10mm up to 40mm in 5mm increments
mbs_wide_10.stl (143.3 KB)
mbs_wide_15.stl (171.6 KB)
mbs_wide_20.stl (178.1 KB)
mbs_wide_25.stl (200.4 KB)
mbs_wide_30.stl (206.8 KB)
mbs_wide_35.stl (224.9 KB)
mbs_wide_40.stl (231.3 KB)
The minimum length this design supports is 10mm. Less is not possible, because the lip needs the extra material I added, otherwise it’s going to fail. However, that extra material needs to be chamfered, otherwise it’s going to cause wear on the inner tube. With this version I have personally not experienced extra wear on the tube. Different tire / tube / operating pressure combos might cause a different experience.
They are meant to be printed without supports in this orientation:
If you suffer bed adhesion problems a brim is recommended.
The design is meant to be a snug but not too tight press fit into both sides of the hub. This press fit makes sure that the hub’s interlocking feature still works, and helps prevent bent bolts by distributing the load. To achieve this fit, you will need to tweak for the filament’s shrinkage factor. In cura there’s a setting for that, but you can also just scale the whole thing up or down. You WILL need 2-3 tries to get this just right.
Depending on the accuracy of your printer the holes for the bolts to pass through probably need to be drilled out with a 4mm drill bit. The design has specifies exactly 4mm, no tolerance.
You need to source your M4 screws. The screws that come with the hub are M4x50 DIN912. To get the correct screw length for the front wheel, just add the width of the widener to this number. For the rear, on BN-AT drives you need to add an extra 10mm. Maybe 5mm extra is also enough, I haven’t tested that yet. So for example, I use the 20mm wideners, on the front I have 70mm screws, on the rear with the BN gear drive I have 80mm screws. Note: you don’t want these screws to bend under any circumstance. Always get the highest grade available, the wider you go the truer this gets. Stainless probably isn’t going to cut it, but you are welcome to test.
Crappy PLA survived me and I ride pretty hard. PETG is probably the better choice though. Print on the higher end of the filament’s temperature spectrum.
Only the 20mm version is tested at this point. They are very robust if printed well.
This was the “failure” mode for me:
This happened during a pretty serious crash, which messed up the bearing seat in the hub and deformed the lip too. So I think if you print them well they can take more beating than the hub itself.
Important note:
The hubs have sideset bearings by standard. Meaning, that the load on the bearings is not centered! This normally isn’t in issue if you use the hub as intended, however if you widen it even more, this might lead to increased wear on the bearings and the bearing seats. Check your bearings regularly! The wider you go, the faster bearings will wear out. I am going to try 3001 double row angular bearings in the hubs soon, those should take the extra load much better. I’ll keep you all updated how that goes. Those however take up more axle space.
Legal stuff:
Use this at your own risk. I do not take any responsibility for it.
3 Likes
AlexB
May 16, 2024, 11:32pm
#1232
Don’t know if it’s of any use to anyone here but I modeled the shock pad for the Acedeck NYX Z3 gear drives (Element 4.0 gear drive)
https://www.printables.com/model/882049-acedeck-nyx-z3-gear-drive-shock-pad
1 Like