3D-printable Tanuki Hubs! šŸ¦

I mean if you donā€™t like them, donā€™t print them and ride them?

Heā€™s offering files, not a finished product

Personally I trust my printing skills (probably not basic pla) to hold up just fine

Once you start getting into more exotic materials like nylon, pacf, or pccf, the hub price nears Rockstar 2ā€™s. I think petg is plenty strong enough, although I may test out a set using pacf as well

As for regular pla, I donā€™t think itā€™s resistant enough to heat to run, especially in the summer

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Tanuki is selling the files though, right? Itā€™s not like an open source project?

IMO itā€™s an awesome project, but worth having a conversation over how safe 3d printed hubs might be.

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What matters is the ratio, not just the pulley size

But BNM1 drives use 50T for the 2.78 ratio version and those are quite popular.

The main desire of Kegel is gear drive or DD ā€œ2 in 1ā€ builds

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As I already said, I encourage product discussion in this thread, and I donā€™t see this as ā€œshitting on itā€ at all.

That being said, I included several warning in the op, including ones about prolonged UV exposure, high working pressures and sudden failures.

But I also think that 3D printed materials are severely underestimated here. Every material has its limits, and every material can be engineered to work for a given application (with constraints of course). I think I have found a good balance in this case here. The only risc factor that remains (if you follow all recommendations) is long term use over several years, which is not easily testable by me and is a burden the buyer has to carry.

What I do here is offering a blueprint for you to use. Which in many ways is more than any other manufacturer will ever do for you, as you not only get the product, but also instructions on how to replicate it yourself. This is not a one-time product like it is when you buy a set of hubs. This is freedom, if Iā€™m allowed to be a bit dramatic here. Which naturally also comes with more responsibilities, as now youā€™re the one deciding over critical components.

This is also as open source as it gets for me to still get (not really :D) compensated for the time. I mean youā€™re literally getting the files, and its not exactly a secret how to modify .stl files.

So, in essence, saying that this is too dangerous of a project is kind of missing the point, as @ShutterShock said. I only sell a set of instructions, what you do with it is very much up to you. If you feel that this is too dangerous, that only means that this isnā€™t the right project for you. Luckily there are many other options from many experienced manufacturers available out there.

This is very much a DIY product, and as such are the benefits and the riscs. Please keep that in mind when discussing here. :slight_smile:

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Sure, and I agree - but I think maybe it deserves its own thread so we can keep feedback about these specific files / hubs in here.

It would be interesting to get some real testing done of these versus rockstar 2 hubs and see what it takes to break each of em?

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If someone wants to do it, Iā€™m all for it.

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Iā€™d watch that rbemotion video!

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Haha you really did get me thinking by mentioning it

I should do it project farm style and try to break stuff - sometime in 2024ā€¦

Iā€™m kind of joking, but it sounds fun

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Just so you know itā€™s easier to break the bearings in a Rockstar II than the hub itself

I got a ā€˜totaledā€™ Comp 95 board that crashed at 30 mph, and the bearings exploded and bushings were deformed, but after a new set of bearings and bolts the hubs ran true

I believe it haha those nylon hubs are tough. I donā€™t even know if it would be a fair comparison

Oh absolutely not, Rockstars will hold a lifetime of abuse, I donā€™t think it would be safe at all to ride printed hubs off road

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Hm - I suppose that would subject them to more impact. Iā€™m not convinced they arenā€™t good enough just yet.

As soon as I get the time Iā€™ll put some work in on them - the looks are enough for me to want to attempt it.

FWIW Iā€™ve taken my own 3D printed hub design of the 8x3.5 tires to 30+ so far and jumped on them a bit and they didnā€™t break, even with standard PLA. Granted it was not hot outside, which I have started to learn is a major failure point for PLA.

They are massive rims though so I was surprised they didnā€™t even have stress breaks. I broke one of the lips, a small part of it, while jumping off stairs with them. But that showed infill behind, where I only had used 40%. So anyways, Iā€™m just saying, people tend to write off 3D printing without actually fully knowing where its shortcomings are

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If heat is an issue then geardrives might be a problem

Depends. I have gear drives so we will see. My actual gear drive body doesnā€™t really get over 60c though so Iā€™m not too worried.

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Why? I donā€™t think Iā€™ve ever had my gear drives get even warm.

Depending on the design a GD will have a substantial amount of thermal transfer to the adapter plates, no guarantee but itā€™s an increased risk of thermal degradation over belts and chains, plus a GD is stiffer than belts and chains with more inertia so more stress on the hubs

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I would argue that a proper chain or belt setup will have barely any difference to gears in terms of stiffness

But ya it is possible that it could be a problem, we wonā€™t know until its tested though

Iā€™m mostly looking forward to the insane torque possibility of 6 inch tires on my 5.2 GD lol

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The shock delivered is the same on belts vs chains vs gear drive. There is no relevant difference in ā€œstiffnessā€ in this application, only in strength.

If your gear drive gets hot enough to soften PLA or PETG you should use a better lubrication compound, or adjust the gear slack. This doesnā€™t account for motor heat though, but if your motors are hot enough to overheat your gear drive youā€™re reaaaally pushing them to the limit. Also, this is not a problem if your geardrive uses carbon as a base plate.

Regarding Rockstar IIā€™s, my designs have a lot more ā€œmeatā€ on them to mitigate the difference in specific strenght. :smiley:

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Nylon-CF. Pretty stiff. Itā€™s in the oven annealing now (80c, 2hrs)

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I like the hub design but am reluctant to use any material that can break down with UV light exposure. Are there any materials which are UV resistant that the hubs can be printed in? Thanks in advance!