20SSS 2ST BRO : a 20S SSS inrunner 2Stage reduction build (2023 BOTY Candidate Update)

one thing i have found out on my vesc ebike was that when the vesc could better track the rotor it would consume less power while being more torquey but it also the motor ran cooler

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I’m a bit confused about how much I should increase Absolute Maximum Current to avoid these ABS_OVER_CURRENT faults.

This is the situation : (with another e-mtbd but no matter)

Low speed, high grip tyre, most of the weight of this wheel because of the large size of E-TOXX STEALTH420 hangers :

Setting Absolute Maximum Current from 280 to 340A allow me to lower the ABS_OVER_CURRENT faults number from 11 to 1 (344.5A).

Should I increase the Absolute Maximum Current again up to 350A? No risk for ESC considering nothing is wrong regarding connections and soldering job?

Should I set “Slow ABS Current Limit” to true?

Motor Current Max is set to 124A.
Battery Current Max is set to 100A.

YES. Trying this before increasing the limit itself, it makes a huge difference.

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yes absolutely, also have a play around with turning traction control off or upping the rpm difference (thats if you have it on)

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Recommend to use firmware 5.03.

6.02 is easy to have current fault.

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What was the ambient temp when they were running so hot? How many amps were you putting through them?

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Thanks to all of you!

Setting “Slow ABS Current Limit” to true (and in the same time lowering “Absolute Maximum Currrent” to 260A) made the issue disappear!

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5.03 on the d100s has stuttering issues on the sensorless transition

Ambient temp was probably 60-70 F, so not too hot. Amps while actually riding, probably averaging 40-50 phase amps, peaks of 100. Crazy thing is even just freespinning the motors in the air under no load they would heat up pretty quick just from the high rpm.

It’s weird
 reachers I’m assuming? And then you have those guys running 205kv at 21s with no complaints about heat :person_shrugging:

Interesting, I’m gonna use mine on an 18s build now, maybe higher is better with them.

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Yep, reachers. Its not bad, for short sprint racing the power of intentionally running a high kv is well worth it, but its a pretty inefficient setup if you just want to cruise.

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I’ve set “Slow ABS Current Limit” to False, because @Trampa (Frank) says it may lead to ESC destruction and saving my life doesn’t worth it. I prefer to save it a little bit so I’ve increased “Absolute Maximum Current” up to 355A.

I got only one ABS_OVER_CURRENT at 358A. It’s current spike because I can not even see such high current it in Metr log. As always : Motor #1 (never with Motor #2) ; while backside turning on rear right wheel ; never happens while frontside turning on rear left wheel but maybe it’s because of more balanced weight distribution this way. I’ll set the parameter to 380A and I think it will be OK like that.

I’ve searched a bit and read a discussion between B Vedder and Jens from E-TOXX. B Vedder admits he doesn’t have enough high power motors at his side.
https://vesc-project.com/node/97

He advises to set “High Current Sampling Mode” (Motor Settings / FOC / Advanced) to True. I have not heard of anybody testing that.

@Trampa advised somewhere to try to lower the Time constant T to 500uS and then press Calc Apply Old and write the new values.

image

You could be right, but these motors are spec’d to 40k rpm, and the top loaded speed of this board is ~23k, so I’d think it would be within the capabilities of the motor without crazy high iron losses. I don’t really know though - that’s pure speculation based on the motor spec.

@DavidC what is the freeroll like on that 1:15 dual stage gear drive? If you have bad freeroll, that is going to kill your efficiency.

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Free rolling is good actually!

Consumptions :

  • Psychoframe : 22S 2x 143*211 (lol) inrunners 11" : 79 Wh/km
  • 4WD build : 12S 4x 6374 190KV 10:59 10" : 32 Wh/km
  • this build : 20S 2x 56123 360KV 1:15.625 9" : 27 Wh/km
  • Turnigy SK8 motor build : 12S 2x 6374 192KV 8:40 8" : 23 Wh/km !!! (and a lot of heat
)
  • 80100 build : 12S 2x 80100 130KV 10:35 8" : 22 Wh/km
  • light build : 12S 2x 6374 190KV 10:45 8" : 18 Wh/km
  • Hummie Hubs build : 12S direct drive 83mm : 11 Wh/km
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@DavidC i haven’t found any video of you starting from a standstill. whats tuned hfi like on the inrunners and how does it compare to hall sensor outrunners

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As you can see, very good start up with HFI. Almost as good as with sensors.

I think HFI startup can differ depending on the ESC. With my Hummie Hubs, 45 Deg V0 HFI works very well with Flipsky FSESC Mini 6.7 PRO but is awful with older Flipsky Dual Mini FSESC 6.6 (without antispark). So my settings might not suit another ESC with the same motor.

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daaamn that’s nice, might give it ago on mine.

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Last ride I had a phase wire that got unplugged after hitting a piece of wood, on the motor that had the ABS_OVER_CURRENT error. Maybe it was not plugged correctly before (vibrations or I don’t know) what caused this recurrent error.

I have improved wire management :

I also had a small issue with gear drive sliding a bit on the hanger. A clamp system as used by Trampa with their gear drive is the only solution that worked with me to prevent this from happening.

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