I used depth as my control. i assumed the thing was a solid block of aluminum up to some depth. I was very careful to not go to deep. I think i used a drill stopper. might have used tape.
you need to not get it wrong, you need to be careful.
I think i tried to use the hole pattern from the castles xlx2, but i think measurements were wrong so ti’s it’s own pattern. i relied on depth not placement to avoid electronics concerns.
I don’t think width is a concern.
I should have warned you to be very careful not to cross thread them either. and I apologize. I didn’t transfer the pattern to the board well so those holes were off making it very finicky to get bolts started.
wonder if it’s using thermal pads or paste. either way if you can find a replacment that’s the extra cautious way of going.
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Chances of hurting the fets are incredibly minimal. Warm up the casing a bit and pull up with even force once all screws are out. DONT USE THERMAL PASTE, get a thermal pad. With the way the fets are mounted backwards, with the metal side facing out. This side can be directly connected to the drain or output of that phase and result in a real bad time if they short through the aluminum casing, the thermal pad provides an actual barrier while still facilitating heat transfer. In contrast, thermal paste can move out of the way and fill air gaps while letting metal still touch where it can.
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I’ll get crackin tonight and share results!
@fessyfoo @tuckjohn @HAIRYMANJACK
Thanks for your advice !!
Going to see about quick delivery of thermal pads rn from Amazon I’m thinking sharp cheddar 
might work too 
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I think this is the time to throw it in an ultrasonic cleaning bath with isopropyl while I have the electronics out anyways… It makes sense anyway Right? 
Luckily the facility I’m liquidating out in Arizona has a lab and happens to have a ultrasonic cleaner & iso 
I just powered the board briefly
as far as lingering voltage in the caps / mosfets after being powered down with the batteries removed is there a way to handle this properly?
Is there a proper way to drain?
Or is it just a waiting game?
Are there other components that might hold power
That might be hiding sparks?
Chat GPT here I come.
I guess the simple solution is to probe caps using my multimeter aswell as mosfets
(which I will have to figure out what they look like and how to properly measure due to the other potential mosfets I’ve seen in my life that usually have 3 prongs?)
to see if they retain voltage at all as is.
And if they do I might have to find a resistor in the facility somewhere tmr & see if I could drain the residual power by probing each component that contains power.
Idk just thinking out loud could be a totally different angle to all of this
