Ok, thanks for the feedback.
If anyone has used the included bus bars on a flexible deck, can you please speak up and report no issue with this setup connecting the modules that allow enough play when the board flexes.
It sure would make the connections unreliable or put undue stress on the 3D printed parts. Don’t risk it. And
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Yeah, I’m leaning towards the braided cable, but @Agniusm mentioned in the other thread the bus bars design should facilitate the flex, so just curious if anyone used it with a flexible deck and how it’s held up.
I would test it. No major loss could accure. I would additionally use some thread lock. If its not good, its just few bus bars to swap out.
Does anyone got prusa mini 3d printer? Cute little thing for not too much money.
I want to make a 10s3p out of 2s3p modules. How many series tabs do I need to buy? Why would I go vented vs non vented? Thanks for the help
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Big thanks to @mishrasubhransu, this is his NESE box. I scaled up his 2s4p module and it appears to work great.
We PM’ed about this before and at his suggestion, i scaled his box up 21/18 (166.666%) in the “battery diameter” dimensions (in my case, X and Z) and 70/65 (107.692% ) in the “battery length” dimensions (in my case, Y). Im going to tweak those numbers a bit for the next print, because this print sucked, but as a proof of concept it is good, and the dimensions work very close.
Side note, does anyone have a slicer profile for PETG that works good for them? I have a Creality CR-10s S5 and i have PLA completely dialed in (for functional prints, i dont know how anyone does those museum quality surface finishes), but PETG has been giving me fits.
P.S.: And of course a big thanks to @Agniusm for the tabs, and designing this whole battery system 
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You are very welcome Ben.
It should be 70/65 because 18-650 and 21-700. I am guessing that’s why it was a bit tight along the length for you.
I just checked the pitch of the tabs and found out that @Agnius might be using the same scaling. Because from his models I know the pitch of 18650 is 18.3mm and measuring the 21700 tabs gives me a pitch of 18.35mm which is equal to 18.3*21/18.
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Whoops, my bad. I wrote the wrong numbers here, but when I was scaling them I did the math correct. I corrected my post, thanks for catching that!
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Hi Agnius,
What are the dimensions of a 21700 2S4P module with shallow hardware?
Couldn’t find the info in your resources.
Thanks
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I just wanted to ask exactly the same thing. 
Also, are 18650 2S5P modules available? It seems they would be handy for making 10S5P or 12S5P flat battery packs where you have two “columns” of 5P groups that then get connected with a single 2S5P group.
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@BenjaminF Thanks.
@Reelop19 i think its 5. I need to doublecheck.
@Goldrabe its somewhere in this thread. I always forget those figures. Basically internal tab adds 0.6mm to the enclosure plus 1mm for series busbar and then bolt another 2.8mm if i’m not mistaken. You can remove corrugated washer and use some thread lock to shallow it further. 3.6mm from the enclosure is the minimum. Enclosure dimensions are on the website. Choose product and go to additional info.
@janpom My internal tabs are 8P so I can only make 4P with internal connections. I could make 2S5P module but you will need to series one module externally by wire or copper flat bar.
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Makes sense. That shouldn’t be a problem.
Could you maybe take two 6P tabs and overlap them like this to get 10P?
-o-o-o-o-o-o-
-o-o-o-o-o-o-
Or that just wouldn’t fit in the housing?
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The enclosures are a tight fit, only by adding fishpaper rings it’s hard to get the cells in the enclosures. Overlapping the hardware would take too much space. Soldering two pieces together and sanding off the excess might work though?
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Overlapping wont work. It will be too thick. Soldering is too weak besides heat would damage foam somewhat in that area. I would suggest running 0.5 or 1mm flat bar externally. 2 holes and 2 90° bends.
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I have overlapping tabs in my NESE modules. I accidentally cut a tab too short. It fits but its a very tight fit lol
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You should add all those information to the first thread.
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Re-measured and updated first post.
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$5 Samsung 40T until the 27th.
$3 Samsung 25R until the 25th.
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To make my 10S5P pack I had used 40 X 25R cells and 10 X molicel discount cells that turned out to be defective(<2 volts). I just charged them back up and checked for capacity. They matched what they were supposed to be and so assuming they were alright, I used them in my pack.
Everything was fine since I was charging every other day, but I didn’t charge it for 3 weeks or so and found that one of the parallel groups was exactly zero. I suspect the defective molicel slowly drained and brought the rest of the cells to zero too.
Fortunately being NESE, I just got 5 new cells. Opened NESE and popped the new ones in. Easy peasy. And now I am back to riding it again.
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Thanks for posting. I think sometimes we need this simple positive posts to celebrate how far our diy efforts have pushed us. 
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