So as I wrapped up my flux board which will be my main local board I also now have my hummie which is a bit lighter and would be used if i need to commute in the city. With that said I have both boards paired to my 1 GT2B… 1 remote to rule them both naturally…
but now im wondering if I have a friend who wants to ride the hummie with me then Id have to crack the case and throw in the mini remote receiver…and yes having a friend ride a board is a viable reality…
with that said I want to have both a mini receiver and gt2b receiver pre wired so I never have to crack the case again (we know that will never happen)
the problem? you cant have 2 powered receivers (well you can) AND my flux board all riding at the same time so I would have to disable 1 of the 2 right?
the solution:
step 1: Y split the ppm cable from the unity…
step 2: wire a on-off-on rocker switch
step 3; the main ground from the unity ppm goes to the center pole (off), and then receiver 1 ground wire gets pin 1, receiver 2 gets the other.
does this sound about right?
…aside from having to do a basic remote calibration if/when im changing remotes on the hummie.
edit:
success! cutting the ground line lead to weird issues HOWEVER cutting the signal line works perfectly as expected.
Assuming you have skate A and skate B and they each have VESC-compatible ESCs Left and Right
(this actually won’t work on single drives ) (assuming dual drive for everything)
Connect a Mini Remote radio receiver to skate A ESC left
Connect a Mini Remote radio receiver to skate B ESC left. (You could actually do this with more skates, but only with 2 remotes.)
Connect a GT2B radio receiver to skate A ESC right
Connect a GT2B radio receiver to skate B ESC right.
Pick two integers, I’ll use these two. They can’t be the same. left: 37 right: 42
Connect a bluetooth or metr module to at least one ESC per skate.
Grab a paint marker and write “37” on a Mini Remote. Write “42” on the GT2B remote.
Power up and pair all receivers, and set the failsafes, and set the throttle mapping and curves on every single ESC. They all need to be set.
Connect to the bluetooth or metr with a mobile handset (with wifi connected) using VESC-Tool or metr smartphone application. Turn on TCP forwarding.
On a laptop or desktop on the same wifi (or wired) network, connect to VESC-Tool and set all the left ESCs VESC ID to 37. Set all the right ESCs VESC ID to 42. This is in App_Settings > General. Write the changes each time.
to change remotes
Connect to the skate with VESC-Tool using a forwarded TCP connection
In App_Settings > PPM > General change both ESCs’ Multiple VESCs Over CAN setting to False and write the value. Don’t try to get ahead of yourself. Turn them both off FIRST. ignoring this can cause you to have to open the enclosure and use a USB port
Now look at the remote in your hand, and whichever number is written on it, go to that ESC on the CANBUS, and set Multiple VESCs Over CAN to True. Write the value. That skate is now using the remote in your hand and ignoring the other one.
So you can switch which remote is active in about 30 seconds…
Yup this ought to work you’d be cutting the circuit/power from one receiver or the other. Only problem is like you said the range of min to max and mid values for each remote will differ a bit even from same mfg. It would probably be a bit safer to use a single poled double throw or SPDT (I think) switch so can have the signal wire connect or disconnect as well if want to avoid feeding voltage via the signal line at all into the receiver that’s off.
Edit just checked I was thinking dpdt double pole double throw switch actually so gnd and signal separately both switch with one rocker.
if i don’t want to mess with all that vesc setting, technically i can use a 2-1 Y split ppm cable and add two on/off switches before the y split right? turn off both before turning on the one i want to use? this wiring seems to work in my head? correct me if im wrong.
No, because of subtle differences in timing, your min/max throttle/brake will be wonky, and your deadband will have to be huge, like probably 15% or more.
I don’t think that will work well at all, because you’d need to change these settings each time you flipped the switch:
what if after all those switch flipping, i also calibrate the remote in vesc app? will that work? just thinking out loud, i don’t have friends that would need to borrow my esk8
Either way you are going to need to make a software change to change the remote.
You can either:
make a complicated change that involves typing numbers that look like 1.055ms, 1.885ms, 1.528ms, and have those numbers available for each remote receiver (not even just each remote)
flip a switch
or
make a super simple change changing two values to False, then one to True, only looking at a number on a remote like “37”
thats basically what im saying and was preparred to do. remote calibration via vesc tool app…or in my case unity app is quick and easy…easier…than cracking open the case to swap a receiver…
@b264
all good info way above especially for someone who has dual independant units via can…in my case its a unity… and/or a FS dual doesnt have a dual ppm input either which is why im at this post
Ok so this almost works now… But i need some input… My GT2B is my main remote for both boards and then i want to throw a mini receiver in there…cuz that’s what I have on hand…
Now the toggle switch works perfect cutting the negative line to each receiver on the y-split. The gt2b receiver has no issues and give no.fucks what I’m doing…HOWEVER the mini is a little bitch.
IT doesnt like being connected in some way,shape or form… If both are connected to the splitter even thought the gt2b is otherwise dead NO SIGNAL is sent from the mini to the unity…
If I unplug the gt2b from the Y it works fine… Ive tried them on both ends same result…plugging the mini into the original ppm cable off the unity works fine as to be expected.
They both only share the positive and signal line at all times… But only one neg. at a time…
I think it’s better to not use the switch at all, with regular ESCs.
They may be an internal pulldown resistor or an internal pullup resistor that’s wreaking havoc with the other receiver. Try putting a 470Ω resistor in series with the “signal” wire on each receiver.
to bad radio shack is dead otherwise just grabbing a resistor would be easy… i could switch it haha pun and just try 1/2 on the signal wire only and see what that gets… both receivers would always be on when the board is… wonder if any complications will arise from that…
) (assuming dual drive for everything)
