I thought about this many times. I lack 3d modeling skills tho.
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Really like that, only remains to find a way to make it completely waterproof, shouldn’t be that hard.
You could seal the non moving side with silicone, and make a second chamber where the wire does a bend and exits at the same side as the non moving one
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Perhaps a small loop that allows for the wire to curl up inside the enclosure? That way any external sliding is eliminated.
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You described exactly what I had in mind, way better and in fewer words 
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Ahh, I see what you’re saying. However with 10 guage wire, any “bend” will take up a lot more space. Especially if you want the entire module enclosed, the box would be very big and bulky. It would be harder to accommodate different enclosure sizes/space
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Perhaps if you removed the sheathing on the part of the wire inside the switchbody so there is more flex in less space, and sealed the exit hole to the sheathing on the rest of the wire.
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You could add a resistor sticking out from the side of one connector, now when you close the circuit the resistor should make contact before the actual connection does. And you would have real pre charging (no spark inside eating the connector).
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Hey @murdomeek, is there any progress on this? Have you been using the switch? Are you happy with it? Is it available in any way?
I may need one of those. I only lost one loopkey so far but you don’t want to know how many times I went out riding and forgot to take the key. This would save me a lot of time riding up and down in the elevator. 
(I’ll need to figure out my remote next. 
)
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@janpom sorry, I didnt see this.
The switch is still running great after a summer of covid riding
The only changes I would suggest is to use PETG filament for extra longevity. But the PLA has been holding up fine.
I’m not planning to pursue this as I recently got a new job that is taking my time.
PM me if you want the .stl files and I can send them to you
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as150 has that resistor built into the connector. Similar to XT90s
I got a new job thats taking up all my time. So here are the 3D print files for you all to enjoy
(See 1st post)
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Cool, thanks dude! Printing one now 
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Nice idea. If this is in fusion 360 then can you send me step file?
Black is the @murdomeek
Green is the deckoz
To be fair i think both of them need tweaking. The deckoz version is really nice and solid, but only allows for 12awg, and needs something to help align the bits better for a smoother connection.
The murdomeek version I feel needs to be beefed up all around, and especially needs a guide that allows the switch slude to be supported along the whole length of it’s travel. When fully open, it is possible to push the slide in, and the dick for the switch feels like it would be prone to snapping over time.
I think im gonna tweak the deckoz version to suit my needs.
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We can shoot these and they’ll still work?
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Hey! Thanks for the design! It really helps! As @glyphiks mentioned, the lid was a bit flimsy. I have edited your design a little bit to make it stronger. I also added 2 screw holes to the base to suit my needs.
Enhanced lid:
http(s)://drive.google.com/file/d/1eO9csXdp915Qjc9Ub-9leT0Y56B1NtyA/view?usp=sharing
Enhanced base:
http(s)://drive.google.com/file/d/1Kjd1BKaQUCBO1-0uQFYkP4716Eu2xSG8/view?usp=sharing
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Thanks for the feedback and sharing your files!
How about connect QS8 with 8mm or QS10 with 10mm antispark instead?
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the point here isn’t really for max power but for the “bolt action” switch style.
would love to see if you had a different idea. Pics/drawing help a lot to get an idea across.
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you seen this?