I popped my motors off to take a look. One side seems to spin totally fine (when installed on the drive). Like I mentioned before the other side seemed like it had some excess drag. I took it off, heated the pinion so I could lift the pinion/mounting plate a bit and check the pinion bearing. It seemed to spin freely which is good, and the motor seems like it spins freely too. Looking in the drives I can’t see any marks where the pinion would be rubbing so I’m not sure what the deal is yet.
I didn’t touch the pinion on the free spinning one, which looks like this
I think the issue with mine is that it assembles fine until you torque the bolts holding the drive case cover to the motor mount. Then there is a small deflection on the case cover which just barely eats up all the tolerance between the pinyon and case cover. A little off the cover or a slight reduction in pinyon height fixes the tolerance so it has a gap again. Wish i had snapped a picture when i had it open - I didn’t want to Dremel the case because i had already added the grease… and it seemed like the laziest way to fix it at that point
I had the same issue with my reacher motors and newest gen 4gs. When I tightly closed the gear box, I could barely rotate the motors. I also resolved it with a thin shim spacer.
Was the pinion hitting the bump in the shaft on the Reacher motors, causing it to stick up a bit and hit the gear case? Because just sliding the motor back a hair would leave the pinion in the same spot wouldn’t it? Since it has the pressed on bearing that sits in the pocket on the mounting plate
The pressed on bearing was hitting the bump on the bottom of the motor shaft and as a result was not flush with the motor plate. So the spacer brings the bump further away from the pressed bearing and allows the pinion/bearing to sit flush against the motor plate.
Gotcha! Makes sense. There might have been a slight design change between gen1 and the newest. I have a new set of 4GS coming with the revised triple links hanger so I can compare. I’ll plan on shimming the motors though just in case
Pet sleeve = braided wire loom thing? I am using 1/2” and it seems to work nicely. I put Tesa tape on the ends to keep it from going full Medusa and then heat shrink over it
Alas my Amass have arrived in 4mm bullet form. Got the new guys on and shrinkededed. Ready to assemble and see if stuff wants to talk to each other correctly
Got everything buttoned up tonight. Couple of the inserts were being bitches and I probably cross-threaded one but that’s what grip tape is for, hiding our mistakes.
If you’re not careful those cable glands will try and eat your pretty Sleeve McQueens when you’re pushing your wires into them. Nothing some Tesa tape can’t fix… it’s like grip tape for your wires. Got those connected, bullets secured with some tape (I did that sweet, super custom zip tie separation job prior to connecting too).
Bottom of the enclosure still has most of my aluminum skid plate panels from the old ‘leez days. They work great. Not sure if I’ll bother making one for in front of the Bioboards heatsink because if that thing hits a curb, the curb will need fixing before the heatsink. Shit is beef city.
Used my lil USB panel connector thing and connected to my laptop like an esk8 boomer and fired up ole VESC tool. For some reason my power switch only lights up when being pushed in (momentary style?) but I’m not worried about it as long as it works. I probably F’d one of the wires on it that @frame could tell me how to fix but that sounds like a problem for 4-weeks-from-now me.
Motor detection was a success and hall sensors were detected on both sides first try. A true VESC miracle. Set some preliminary numbers to get started:
• 120A motor current
• -70 motor current max brake
• 250A absolute max current
• 60A battery current
• -40 battery current max regen
I can never remember which brake setting does which (high/low speeds). I just want strong brakes, period. Any advice welcome on any of the settings. Made sure to set fault time to 85ms on both sides as well.
Input detection went fine and like a dickhead I forgot to change local side to Off_After_30M because MakerX_Is_Stupid so the switch wouldn’t shut it off when I was done. This puck has the new linear firmware update. Running 0/0 ramping times and will mess with the throttle curve a bit. Have it on hyst reverse right now, might swap it back over to current with speed limited reverse profile but depends how my hair and makeup look that day
