Nice! The build is begging for a 2p pack. Don’t M1 Inboard us.
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I think with all that clearance I’m leaning towards a 12s2p or at least designing a true quick swap 12s1p and throwing the other in my backpack 
I just don’t want it to get too heavy, and I think it’s getting there already 
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Disclaimer: I know you’re an experienced builder that knows more than me about batteries, this is mostly for fun because I went down the rabbithole rather than a lecture.
Would you consider a 12S1P lipo quick swap module? That would give lots of power as opposed to 1P 21700s, and if it didn’t need to go too far on a single charge/swap you could make it roughly the same weight. Energy density is a lot higher on round cells still, but for small packs my concern is more about power than range.
4 of these lads is 860g, 133Wh, and “30C continuous 3Ah”, so realistically maybe 45A? That would be 2000W nominal (adjust for real current rating). They also claim 60C burst.
12 P42As are 804g with no nickel, wire, or heat shrink. 181Wh, 30A mooch rating, slightly lower voltage in most of the discharge curve, 1300W nominal (adjusted for real current rating). More on this below, but P42As also don’t get very close to their claimed capacity at any real world loads. Even a 10A discharge drops you to ~3850mAh or 166Wh, dropping more from there.
IMO when you’re in the 100-200Wh range anyway it’d actually be better to go all in and get a lipo pack that’s more aimed at high discharge than capacity, like the below. 860g again, 118Wh, “106A continuous, 159A burst”.
There seems to be no Mooch equivalent who does as much for lipo testing, but I did find a couple of user discharge curves for a pack in the same brand, product line and similar C rating as this pack. This pack was 4000mAh, 2S, “30C continuous, 40C burst”. The tester only ran up to 50% of the C rating, 60A in that case, but it shows that there’s only a 4~5% drop in capacity when discharging at 60A vs 4A. Interestingly, all discharge levels including 60A appear to exceed the rated capacity. 60A gets roughly 4044mAh on a 4000mAh pack.
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Oh I didn’t realise it was single motor, I just saw the dual ESC and assumed. That does somewhat remove the need for lotso battery power, but what would be really cool is to gear low to keep torque and good efficiency for most of the speed range and then use field weakening to leverage the extra battery power for an optional higher speed mode
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This build reminds me of the later Arcboard Ailerons, big wheels and a single gear drive with a very long motor.
have you considered smaller diameter wheels that are wider? I’m not sure what’s available, but i keep hearing that contact patch width is the better way to deal with cheesegrater pavement than taller wheels. The Ahmyo Akashas on my tiny single drive 9S build handle the shit pavement fairly well, much better than i expected, but if there are even wider wheels that can fit some pulleys you might want to try them.
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The akashas are magic wheels. I’m convinced they mix the thane with unicorn semen.
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100% agree. They are totally magical and defy all reason with thier level of performance. I’m sorely tempted to do a nice akasha build on a drop through belt drive with a single stack pack on my hummie deck. talk about low. low low.
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The world needs more akasha builds.
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You ever tried the pranas? 74mm diameter and 66mm CP but centerset hub
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what’s the hole pattern like on those? edit: nevermind there are no holes lol those would be a drill and insert type deal.
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Yeah sorry, I meant for pushy purposes.
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i think i want those on my new Shrike 39 then. I just dropped Ronins on it last night but still have the stock bustin wheels. It just came in the mail yesterday and i rode it once before putting the ronins from my magical drawer of trucks i haven’t used yet on lol
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The problem is that I’d need something that is 95mm+ for the BN M1 drive.
Do you guys have any recommendations for something around 100mm with a kegel core? I’d like to save a bit of weight, and reduce the ride height/wheelbite.
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I’ll get a lot of shit for this but Boa Constrictors are a 100 x 65 with some kind of magical formula that feels amazing, and they’re basically the only thane i will ever use when i need bigger thane.
however the 110s are probably what you want if you’re trying to maximize drive case clearance.
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I was going to mention Boas but I was scared 
I think I’ll try out the 110s and get Boas if they become a problem.
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I have one of those…. It just randomly stopped working one day. Not even that many miles on it. Good luck!
Usually if they pass a few dozen miles they will last forever. That one was one of the lucky ones
I sold it since then though.
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I liked the TB 100 mm wheels better than the boas. The contact patch was smaller, but they seemed softer and grippier to me…
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TBs and Boas are both so politically charged that it makes little sense to pick one over the other using anything but specs and feel. The people that can turn a blind eye to terrible customer service should use that same eye on the idea that wheels that ship on time every time and perform amazingly somehow come from a scammy place.
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I bought boas in ignorance because I didn’t know any better and currently using them. This could cause a different kind of annoyance but for anything other than perfect skate park I substantially prefer my cloudwheel 120Ds. Is tbe ABEC M1 completely different or is it possible to just swap the mounting plate over and get 105Ds?
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