So I never really cover up the conductors, I mostly just keep all things metal far away unless I am actively using them. If I am working in a really sketchy area I’ll put a silicone thing on top of the rest of the pack.
One key thing is that I don’t connect the series connection circled in blue until the rest is done so that I don’t short anything across the red line.
One thing that is extremely important to know when working with braid is that when the pack flexes it will expand horizontally. So here if I flexed these sections, the braid down the middle could expand enough to touch and create a really bad short. I wrapped fish paper around it to help prevent this.
Though in reality if the pack flexed that much your board would probably have to look like a U
With the printed spacer it’s not really necessary. A foreign object would have curve over that spacer to cause a short. The nickel won’t be able to touch between each side unless that pack turns into a taco or something.
I could have put fish over it but then I would have to cut 24x pieces out, then have to cut all the series connections holes and balance wire holes. Then when you start soldering the flux gets all soaked up in it and it gets sloppy.
I feel better with the 2mm thick plastic spacer compared to 0.6mm of fish paper.
Yeah, theres definitely a balance to be struck between build time, safety, and aesthetics. I personally dont like any conductors to be visible (all under fishpaper, no matter how ugly) when the heat shrink is off/transparent. This is so if the customer installs it with loose conductive parts, theyll never ever get a chance to touch anything with voltage in the pack. PVC heat shrink is weak as shit in my book, I dont trust it at all for anything other than holding it together.
Yeah obviously that is the bare pack. I go back through and put fish on anything that is exposed or has a chance of wearing through the shrink wrap. Then it gets wrapped up.