I’ll dm you some details later - it’s in beta testing but I’d love to get some more people on it.
Where are you based out of?
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London UK.
What do I need to build it? Or you actually selling the lot?
Ah yeah, I sell it. I’m looking into international shipping but it’s kinda hard to fully support foreign testing haha, can’t send extra parts for 10 bucks
If you’re still looking when it’s final version we can get it set up
Be good to see how it is, might save me some time if I can buy it from you once is ready
I’m send you some pics when I’m home from vacation
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I have a board like this and can offer a few suggestions based on my experience:
Unless you’ve run Apex Airs before and really love them, I suggest Matrix 3s. I struggled a lot with getting the Airs setup for me and gave up on them. At least as a lightweight rider (68 kg) who wants insanely good turning, I found them frustrating. One bonus is the Matrix 3s have four different options of width.
The Bro is a great deck for this kind of build. I have MBS and Trampa decks and the Bro is a good middle ground.
I totally recommend Jump Drives for a build like this. So small, lightweight, easily serviceable, efficient, and pretty bombproof. No worries about breaking belts or chains or getting anything in the drivetrain. I have a buddy with a Trampa belt drive and recently he broke a belt in the dark going down a steep off-road hill and had only half his brakes. Fortunately the other belt didn’t break until about a week later.
I think 12S is fine for a build like this. I’ve never like the idea of switching or carrying extra packs for long range. On my board I put a Pelican 1200 mounted sideways and I have 2P, 4P, and 8P packs that I can put in there and exchange with my other boards. The 4P is usually plenty. The 2P is the ultimate for jumping. I usually have the 8P in my 4WD board but can put it in the 2WD board if I want. I only have to switch ESC modes (profiles) for the different battery currernt settings when I switch to a different pack.
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Thanks man that’s appreciated.
The point of going 16s is so that by having a battery with less P groups, and smaller motors, I won’t have to pump too many amps through in order to have a decent power.
If I use 12s2p I can only have a maximum of 90a with a p45b cell, a d I’ve tried a 16s mtb and really liked the power, liked a bit less the abs cutoffs, so that made me think his amps were at the very limits, and maybe I could get more from my dv6, or even get a dv6 pro. If I stick with 12s I will definitely do 2x 12s2p packs and a hot swap system, and upgrade to dv6pro
But if I go with 16s2p, the 90 amps will be enough, only issue I will have to use a very reduced gearing, and that’s hard to find.
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12S 6Ah Lipo
25H chain transmission
Maytech 6374 190kv x2
FSESC6.7 Mini “Pro” 70A x2
Trampa ULTIMATE ATB trucks
13.5 kg with Lipos
About 10 km of quite aggressive ride util 3.8V/cell
(Willozboard 6S to 12S conversion)
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Just my two cents. I ride down hill mtb and atv trails. I ride with 15s 1p on board and 4p in my backpack. I find that board weight is really important for agility and carving hard. Taking it off the board and into my backpack makes a huge difference.
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You can’t use 16S on the dv6 or the dv6 pro. It’s 12S max
12s 5ah lipo
05b chain on what ever mounts you want, drill 15-45 holes in the sprocket
no battery box, velco and strap
vesc mounted to an aluminium plate
titanium bolts
hypa or rockstar hubs
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No wayyyyy REALLY??
I like the idea of 05b chain but I’ve been reading om the forum that doesn’t hold very well and can snap.
Lipo would be the best solution, but too scared of them 
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Yeah it’s 12S max. You would fry if it you plugged a 16S battery into it, the components are not rated for such high voltage. You need a different ESC for 16S, like the makerx D75 which is out of stock. Reliable high voltage ESCs are not as commonly available as reliable 12S ESCs.
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Also just because you go to higher voltages that doesn’t mean that the heat issues will just disappear. The ESC will have higher voltage FETs which usually have higher Rds_on values meaning they heat up more for the same current. Of course, you need less current for the same power.
And the heat in the motors comes from two things, one is the current, the higher current you push through it the more it heats up. Heat production scales quadratically with current. The higher the motor KV the lower the resistance is and therefore heats up less from this.
However, the combination of voltage and motor KV also heats up motors. Or more specifically, the BEMF when they are rotating. The faster the motor rotates the more heat it creates. The heat production scales linearly with RPM. Therefore you can’t just increase voltage to reduce heat in the motors, because then they will rotate faster and you will create more heat from this. That’s why high voltage builds use lower motor KVs then 12S builds. However, lower KV motors have more resistance.
It’s all a delicate balance, when done well high voltage is better for sure, but it’s not as simple as just swapping the battery.
For 16S you are probably best off with 140KV motors. 170KV is a tad too high in my opinion for most boards on 16S.
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I run 205kv on 16s. Magnet losses aren’t crazy. Id recommend 170kv and a more modest gear reduction than I’m running.
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Thanks that was really helpful, especially the part about motors kv,
I guess a good setup would be 5.5-1 jump drives, 140kv 6355, and 16s2p molicell, avg top speed 30mph (plenty for what I need it for) and keeping a decent power, what do you think?
And yes I know dv6 can’t do over 12s, I was being sarcastic 
. Maker x is about to release a new version of the d100s, but newbee does have d75 in stock.
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When you say modest you mean lower speed?
I like the idea of 170kv where the motor spin fast and I recover torque by gearing.
I’m running 205kv and 6.43:1 geardrives (well, they broke. Going down to 5.5 jump drives and 190kv)
170kv and a 1:5.5 geardrive on 8" knobbies will have a whole lot of torque and top speed.
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What gear drive did you have with that reduction?