What battery are you using? What BMS are you using? Inline or bypassed? What motors are you using?
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This may have to do with the BMS. When they are not bypassed it creates a different set of failure points. We are going to try and recreate the issue to see exactly what it could be.
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This could well be the issue, dicky BMS. Does the BMS give any faults or anything? It can turn the discharge off
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Its my old battery, I tested it before it shipped. No issues on two TB6’s escs. I charged it to full and then did a 20 km ride on it.
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Surely the bms not being bypassed couldn’t do this to the switch controller…
Should I scrape the glue off the same component to see if there’s any damage?
The BMS suddenly cutting power to the ESC could possibly blow that IC. I’m not sure super familiar with it but weird things like that can happen.
Send us a picture of the smart BMS faults section, it will tell you if the BMS overcurrent was triggered.
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All looks good to me,extremely frustrating now,I’m out of pocket and still no board up and running,I thought the first one was just bad luck but I don’t get it,I’m not new to building,everything was done properly and carefully.
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Have you by chance got another battery lying around you can use to test, just to rule it out?
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Unfortunately not bro
Edit: my boi might have will check.
I wonder if its bricked? I did this to my unity. You can remove the bluetooth module and use a ST link and jumper cables to see if it powers the PCB this way. Unity not booting? You are not alone! (How to fix the bootloader) - #12 by Flasher I followed this guide and managed to get my dead unity back up and running.
Sorry just seen it doesnt turn on anymore.
I’m guessing you just used the battery on/off switch for power to the esc’s? Is there a reason the xenith comes with a separate switch? Can you not just use the battery switch?
I used the battery switch yeah, the xenith has a separate antispark. The only reason to not use the bms switch is because it does low side switching instead of high side.
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Update: finally got a working xenith thanks to @MartinSp he replaced the burnt out part and added a jumper to the switch connector,I put it through its pace today once I felt comfortable it was safe,hit top speed and ate up some big hills before hitting the beach,I definitely reccomend him for esc repairs,he was really helpful when it got stuck in customs his end,repair and delivery back was fast 
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My forth has just failed. One managed a 1km test drive before coming home switch blowing. Replaced after few pictures and emails 2nd switch powered on first few times silent fail. Replaced.
3rd tested before fixing into enclosure fine pick up unit after powering of switch pop noise. Brought another so now my forth and still waiting to see about warranty and refund on my third. That’s how much faith I’ve got in company loads of people running em with no issues just not me. brought enclosed to fit xenith from apex and have modded so own that now.
4th tested with two batteries. All good fixed plugged into xenith ui laptop disconnected partway through easy setup. Wouldn’t reconnect to pc so powered off switch. On pressing switch again couple minutes later actual sparks. Running 12s lipos that have been running twin vesc 6mk2 without issue. Well sometimes less tractions to one motor but no blowing up. Only difference was this time is I have had an additional flipsky anti spark switch ans fuse pre xenith f and fuse running before. Going to be paying attention here I think.
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Have you checked the tights trucks? Although rigid trucks are stable but that does not always mean they’re the best skateboard configuration. At least for once, we’ll have to loosen them to turn on a skateboard easier.