So the bottom aluminium plate is missing.
I 3d printed one and added inserts. It will be sturdy enough. If it breaks I’ll print another and send it over.
Comes with appropriate bolts, 1 Unity style switch, and 1 random switch, and all the cable glands.
Judt to be clear, the white plastic is POM and the black bottom plate is 3d printed in prusament PETG by me.
If you need anything else ping me.
The story behind this is that I used some OG focboxes originally, the DRV blew, I then got ESCapes but those have their own heatsink so I just printed an adapter for my ESCapes, and then I 3d printed my own ESC enclosure and so the 3ds top plate and POM enclosure have been sitting in a draw for months.
Also I sincerely apologize but I’m missing 1 enclosure bolt. It’s an M3x45 hex. Hopefully your local hardware store as it, mine unfortunately didn’t.
Top 6mm Plexi Glass Laser Cut (still has protection film so it looks like it has scratches; it doesn’t.
2x XT30 outputs (1 for charging, 1 for lights or whatever you want)
1x XT90 port for ESC
1x Power Switch.
All screws supplied (32x A4 Torx Countersunk)
Fit’s 12s6p P42A cells with room for a giant BMS (ex. DieBieMS)
Inner Dimensions are 240mm x 150mm. (240mm x 175mm inclusing the extra room for the BMS)
It’s because in the pic the lid is reversed haha. The 3ds logo should be upside down (the 8 glands facing the back of the board) (aka the power switch should be closer to the 2 glands, not the 8)
Sorry
Sorry, they don’t unless you drill holes. They have native half cut holes that you need to finish drilling for unity/Xenith and og focbox. (The focbox holes I have already drilled and filled up with black silicone)
Also sorry for the late reply, I’ve been in Switzerland and have no internet, currently using WiFi from a café
