I was saying it doesn’t have a knob like normal. It can be turned by finger or with a very small torx screwdriver or something.
I didn’t mess with it much because it should be zeroed out out or whatever before it ever leaves the company.
I’ve had to zero out trim (or whatever the term is for it being set not to affect riding) on mini remotes before. But not very familiar with this remote and the manual doesn’t explain much of anything.
They come bound. But in the instance you get a new remote or a new receiver seperately, the bind will be required. They usually come with a bind key, a connector with a small cable jumping across 2 terminals. And I’m stating from the top of my head what channel does what. I had the ESC in channel 1 and my picoswitch in channel 2.
I have recently moved to a gt2b modded remote and seem to have ommited from my brain the location of my aps receiver
Never got a cutout
But…
I’ve had 3 instances of weird behavior. Put simply, the remote would pair and boot into some sort of state where throttle would give gas as normal but neutral would cause resistance in the motors. Ive learnt to always check for resistance/freewheel before moving. But I crashed on those 3 times after doing red lights. Stop at a red light, goes green, pump my amps up to cross quickly ahead of traffic, let throttle go on the other side of the street, crash from sudden resistance acting like a violent brake.
First and second time it happened I thought maybe I throttled by accident. Third time there was no chance that was possible so it was absolutely the remote
Well that scares the piss out of me. Ive been thrown by something like that happening with my first shitty eboard(koowheel). I was probably going 20-26mph and it just stopped…it wasn’t pleasant.
I wonder what caused your issue, because I’d like to avoid that at all costs.
Id rather be out $70 than have one of those crashes
Only thing I could think of would be it was a bad pairing attempt. It has happened on other occasions afterwards, but I gained the reflex of lifting the backend off the ground and giving it some gas to see the freeroll effect. If I saw resistance or what looked like the wheels were abnormally slowing down, I’d just turn off and on the remote and the problem would disappear. Never happens during a ride, only on startup
I did adjust the trim on my remote. I believe I tried to balance it so that the PWM values it outputs had the same range in the positive and negative direction. Honestly I hate that the trim knob is accessible from the outside; would much rather have it factory calibrated and out of reach.
@Flasher the issues you mentioned perfectly match a known bug this remote has – if you turn it on while holding the throttle, it will have a wrong mapping. I.e., if you hold the throttle a little bit down while turning it on, then at neutral position it will output braking signals. And even worse – if you have it fully held down when you power it on, the braking portion of the remote will be mirrored for some reason!