Dude, whose dick do I gotta suck to get some of those? Just did 5 tires on the same hubs and it’s always been a gripe of mine.
edit: removed pic so I don’t clog up the thread
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You’re missing one wheel if you have to do this 
Seriously though, I’ll take a set if you make another run
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Working on a very similar version of this wheel hub, designed for standard 175mm/3.75” tires. Smaller wheels/tires aren’t suited well for Chicago streets/trails, and larger wheels are a personal preference.
Why do you have these long ass screws sticking out? 
Mine. Pucker up, buttercup.
We made like 200pcs or something because they were pennies each from Sendcutsend and we had to meet the $30 minimum order lol. So I’ve got plenty if y’all want some. Remind me on Monday (on telegram, I dont check the forum regularly) and I’ll ship y’all a set each.
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Those screws engage with the BN gear drives. I use the long screws on all 4 wheels so that A.) I dont have to buy two different screw lengths, and B.) I can easily swap a front wheel to the back.
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Decided I would swap my gears and motors first, because that’s whats currently keeping Mistfall from being rideable (one of the helical pinions broke loose while I was riding home from work last week).
This panel mount phase/sensor wire implementation worked out really well, surprisingly. Never had an issue, and the ziptie slots kept everything held together tightly over several hundred miles.
This MT60 is fused together for some reason. I pulled on it hard enough to rip through the panel mount, and it still wont budge. No clue why that happened, so I just cut it.
FFFFFFFFFFUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUCK
Guess I didnt torch these bolts for long enough, holy shit. Not only this bit, but I also twisted my Wera hex key a noticeable amount before I finally got them to break loose. Note to self: more fire.
Lateral forces turning these @Boardnamics drives into kevball.nyc drives 
Despite the very minimal engagement on the Hypertrucks hanger, the clamp and the hanger both seem to be holding up great!
I was tired of grease constantly leaking out of my drives, so the last time I had a pinion come loose I silicone sealed the case. This worked great to prevent grease leaking, but it also made getting the case apart a huge pain in the ass
Eventually I figured out that I can put a long bolt in one of the case holes and use an arbor press to split the case.
Drive #1 looks pretty good, though I dont know where all my grease went. Only a little bit of hole-saw action, and I’m pretty sure that’s from the last time my pinion broke loose.
Drive #2, not so lucky 
This is the pinion that broke loose last week on my commute home. I was still about 5 miles from home, and I decided to continue riding rather than call for rescue. As you can see, that probably wasn’t the best choice
Got everything cleaned up, you can see how deep the pinion drilled into the aluminum. The pinion is still flawless, surprisingly. And the aluminum mount isnt actually hurt in any way that matters, so 
Got the case all cleaned out, and I noticed that the metal shavings must have got inside the case bearing and now it’s completely fucked. I pressed it out and tryed to clean it up to repack it with grease, but the races are pitted to shit, the balls are crunchy, and the shields are shredded (I can see daylight through them). So I’m getting new bearings, which means this is now a two day job 
Out with the old…
… in with the new!
Gotta make some clearance for the circlip on the reacher motors because it’s proud of the motor face for some fucking reason 
Got these beauties set in place, and I was about to loctite them when I realized A.) I dont have a motor key that fits, so I’ll have to grind one down, and B.) It was nearly midnight and I was fuckin exhausted.
So I went home.
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What in the world are those super small MR60 looking connectors? You used to be using GX12-6 connectors before. These look way easier to solder to! 
Also the zip-tie solution is pretty smart, albeit non-renewable. I wonder how I could integrate something like that for a water-proof enclosure solution… 
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MR30 
GX connectors are trash, I’ll never use them again
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Why? Mine have been fine for a year of riding. It’s really dry here thou xD
They are a super low quality connector in pretty much every single way. I’ve broken them and melted them and overheated them and plugged them in wrong and and and
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Tonight’s progress:
Dremeled out the hole in the motor mounts so i can remove the motors without removing the pinion gear. Tiny pinion for the win.
Had to grind down my motor keys to fit. Either the keyway in the motors or the pinions are off, or both.
Proper method for applying GREEN LOCTITE (come at me pedants) to your motor shafts, according to @Boardnamics:
Apply a good amount to the shaft and the keyway.
Put the pinion on without the key, spin it several times to spread the loctite into an even film around the motor shaft.
Take the pinion off, put the key in the keyway, add more loctite on top of the key, put pinion gear on.
Position the gear correctly and let the loctite cure for at least 24 hours before putting any load on.
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Those straight gears are looking hot. I’ve been running the helical BN on Hypertruck for a few months now, been loving the feels. Though a few days ago I got hit with this.
What probably happened was my shaft key fell out and drilled a hole right through my cover while riding. Definitely would recommend using some shaft collars, @haven can let you know more.
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Would be nice if the gears has an integrated shaft collar to keep the pinion from flying out. Then again, the pinion being able to move at all will cause impact stress on it and deform it eventually
Maybe grub screws or circlip can be good. Though BN recommended some shaft collars to keep it moving outward. I don’t know about inward though.
Inward is not necessary at least if you get his fs motors, cuz the gears sit against the step in the shaft now, he updated the gear design
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I just saw it, thats neat. I’m also curious if those steps on the shaft make it so the pinion gear perfectly align with the drive gear when every is assembled.
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Yeah that was the idea
More progress:
New case bearings arrived, pressed them in. Having an arbor press around comes in handy way more than I would have expected.
Prepping these @Skyart Reacher motors, and I have some thoughts. I’m not posting this to bag on Artem’s motors, but rather to hopefully offer ways to improve them on future batches.
First, the order of the wires as they exit the can is annoying. The sensor wire bundle comes out between the phases, so I have to cross that phase over for the three phases to come to the same spot. It’s not a big deal, just makes neat wire arrangement harder.
Second, while these phase wires have a nice silicone jacket, they are NOT the high quality fine-strand silicone wire that we should be using. They are corse strand, and therefore have a shape-memory (they can be folded/kinked and they will stay put, rather than flowing like a rope). This tells me that they will be less robust over time with repeated flexing and vibration, and will be more susceptible to snapping strands. Especially for phase wires, this is really not good.
Third, while the 4mm bullets used are the high quality Amass ones (vs the low quality spring-cage style) the solder joints could be better. Especially since the wire is such coarse strands, I would have expected the technician who soldered these to have wetted out the solder better.
Moving on, Mistfall uses two MR30 connectors per motor for sensor connections, since JST connectors should not be used outside an enclosure in my opinion. That means, unfortunately, than I have to do this huge pain in the ass soldering job to get motors prepped for Mistfall. (Those MR30’s look like ass because I had to reuse them, so they have been soldered/desoldered like a half a dozen times by now )
I leared the hard way that soldering the tiny sensor wires directly to the MR30 is not good, as they very easily snap off. The proper way to do it is to crimp a JST connector onto each wire and solder that crimp to the MR30. This works because the JST crimp has strain relief tabs built in, which grips onto the wire jacket and keeps the strain from snapping the tiny copper strands. Unfortunately, its a huge pain in the ass to do this process.
I fucked up here, but we’ll get to that.
This ride height is way too high. Let’s fix that.
Hmm. I’m already using the furthest out mounting holes…
Boom, just flipping the baseplates moved them out like 10mm.
Dropped the ride height significantly. Wish I had measured before and after. It feels way different when standing on it. It’s changed so much that my front handle no longer works to prop up the board on its nose 
the things we do for stance.
Got the motors all hooked up…
…but they didnt detect sensors no matter what I tried 
I checked all the wiring and everything looked correct to me. I tried to figure it out, but I was out of time to work on it. It wasn’t until this morning talking to @poastoast that he figured out the problem for me.
When I was doing my MR30 sensor connectors, I completely guessed at the wire colors. I was assuming that it would be the same as every other motor that I’ve used, which is:
Black - GND
Red - 5V
White - temp
Others - halls
But apparently these reachers have a different order, so I get to redo all my MR30 soldering and hopefully I didnt fry my sensor PCBs feeding 5V down the temp sensor line.
On the bright side, the motors sound fantastic spinning up on the bench. Not having the flipsky scream is nice. The no-load current is really high though, I was seeing 10A just spinning them up to full speed. Probably a combination of iron losses from the high kv and load from moving so much air through the vents.
According to @Boardnamics, I can set the backlash on these straight cuts as tight as I want, as long as there is at least a tiny bit of play. I took him at his word, and the backlash on these is now significantly less than a sheet of paper There’s still a tiny tiny bit of play, so I can click them back and forth. But the straight cut gear clatter is highly annoying to me, and this tight mesh will hopefully help keep that to a minimum.
Greased them up real good. I tried to stuff the cavity under the motor pinion with as much grease as it would take so that the motor bearing would be protected from grime. I also sealed up the gear case with black silicone to keep the grease from seeping out, which it tends to do if you dont seal it.
I indented to ride into work this morning, but I dont think thats going to happen at this point. I’ve got no working sensors, so I would have to enable HFI. I didn’t have time to test ride at all last night, so it would be a big gamble on whether it survives a 20 mile ride. I also forgot my mobile toolkit at the workshop, so if I do break down I have no tools. To top it all off, it’s currently 8:30 and I’m still sitting on the toilet writing this so maybe tomorrow lol.
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