XT30 will carry 30A continuous, I can’t imagine the charger you’d need to exceed the capacity of an XT30.
Also there is no such thing as XT90S male. All male are XT90. XT90S female are the antispark connectors with the green stripe.
Male have pins, female have holes.
12AWG wire is way too huge for a charging circuit, it just wastes weight and cost, try looking at the table. 16AWG - 18AWG is probably plenty. Going too big on wire past your current needs can be bad because during catastrophic failures, it doesn’t fuse away as easily. Likewise, for very low currents, in the sub 5A range, going too small can be bad because the tiny wire sizes don’t handle prolonged vibration as well and can break near or at joints.
This is not a reason to use 10AWG. Solder will stick a smaller wire to it with ease, in fact it will be far easier to achieve a better connection with smaller wire.
These have been demonstrated to be “CYA ratings”, and way under what the connectors can do. These numbers are a way of saying “Don’t sue us”. The ratings have also changed over time, trending downward.
An Amass XT90 desolders itself in open air at around 295A
A 20A fuse will also do 100A without blowing, as long as the time is short enough.
Those continuous ratings are meant to be indefinite. I haven’t seen any data or videos showing an XT30 running at 30A for hours, like it would experience when charging, without melting or otherwise overheating… so I think it’s a little early to say those are just CYA ratings…
FWIW most chargers aren’t 30a anyway. I put all of my charge ports through an internal XT30 disconnect, and most of the time the charge ports are rated for less current than it is, my fastest charger is 10a and I’ve never seen the charge connector get above 28c
I have an XT90E in use for my loop key mounted to the enclosure. The antispark is most useful when ur going to be plugging and unplugging something in again which will cause an inrush. This is why we use them for loopkeys. I always terminate my battery with an XT90s as well but it’s optional. You absolutely MUST use a female XT90s for the loopkey itself tho.
The antispark part of the XT90 does absolutely nothing except during insertion. In the milliseconds during you pushing the plugs together, a ring first makes contact, energizing the circuit through a resistor first (to prevent inrush current spikes) and then very shortly after that, shorting out that resistor with copper.
As far as whether it’s a panel mount version or not, that doesn’t matter at all to the circuit.
Okay, what Im trying to understand is whether i can 3d print a panel for the battery to have a non-antispark connector (i.e. male on the battery, female plugging into it) but plug into it with antispark. Does that make sense?
If you’re asking if you can put male on the battery side, electrically it would work but it’s dangerous to put male connectors on a battery. If you have a loopkey in the circuit, an antispark connector here won’t even help you at all.
I suggest an XT90 (female, non-antispark) or an XT90S (female, antispark, with green stripe) on the battery side and then plug into that with a male XT90. If you have a loopkey it doesn’t matter which female connector you use, whichever one you have in stock.
The loopkey needs to have an XT90S, and preferably as the “key” side, not the “chassis” side.
Unless you have a Unity with backwards connectors (you don’t, as you mention XT60…) then the gender of those are backwards. Unity should have the male connector.
