So I’ve been trying to figure out what could have caused this negative energy spike, I was on the throttle pretty hard when it may have dragged for a split second then no power at all.
I’m not very knowledgeable, but one of my friends says this part seems small for the amount of power it needs to handle. He guessed it’s rated for 2 amps and the fault code I saw reads 2.4 amps filtered.
Anyone know what any one this means? I sure don’t.
So far I’be only come up with 2 possibilities:
My motor pulleys are lose and therefore shift around and have a little bit of play before getting pushed by the driveshaft. Could this be causing my motors to struggle to rotate properly.
The other thought is the traction control setting that seems to drag at times, I have tried to figure out what numbers I should be using for difference in ERPMs and for the most part it seems fine, but I wonder if one motor was being slowed down and that’s why it blew?
Yeah that’s 100A through the big power MOSFETs with a heatsink, not a tiny thing that looks like SOT23-6. OP please disregard this, obviously that part is not in the 100A path. That chip looks like it’s connected to the hall sensor, not the power path
@Kweld_on could you get a picture as close to that part as possible to maybe identify the surviving markings? Also to elaborate on your friend’s point, the 2.4A measured was at a very different part of the Solo to this chip, this guy is some part of the logic and not driving the motors. Like the speedometer in a car, it’s attached to the motor and does some control stuff but it’s not making power
As a guess, I think that part should be a comparator (a fairly simple component that compares the readout from the position sensor to a reference so that a microcontroller can read them and work out what to do) based on how it connects to the sensor. Have you checked the motor that was attached to there for any obvious signs of damage?
What is obvious signs of damage on the motors? There they are brand new motors, but one makes a slightly odd sound(extra “click” between poles), I think it’s due to the lose motor pulley I mentioned originally.
I’m not sure how to open them up but the outsides show no issues
You can open the motors if you have some snap ring pliers (remove the motor from the board, pull off the pulley, remove the snap ring and washers under the pulley on the axle, bolt the motor to a loose motor mount for something to hold on to, pull the can away from the mount, look at the stator for signs of burns)
Would be easier to re-secure the loose pulley as is and check again for that click though, and sniff around for smoke
@ZachTetra I don’t think I smell any smoke. Both motors smell the same and one has had no issues with its ESC.
I took off the pulley, figured it would make a better test, but the motor sounds fine. Let me know if this seems like too much play between the pulley and motor shaft(still coming up with solutions)
Anyone know how to make a 10mm D-Shaft pulley to a 99.75% tolerance or something like that, maybe someone could “eye ball” how much smaller I need the D Shaft to be.
I did short the mosfets of one ESC due to not having it applied to the heatsink properly. Anyway it blew one ESC and made some very loud sparking noises, even damaged the heatsink!(not enough to matter)
Anyway I was wondering if this could have damaged the motor too?
That’s definitely not right, D shafts will always have 2 measurements (round diameter and thickness at the flat), it looks like you have a 10x8.5 pulley on a 10x8 shaft or something
That could damage the motor, do you have a multimeter on hand? If so measure the resistance between each pair of phase leads on the motor (all 3 pairs should have the same resistance) and each phase lead to the stator face plate (all 3 should have no continuity)
So unplug the motors, set multimeter to continuity, then tap the multimeter to the left and right motor(in all 3 channels)
Then each bullet connector individually to the stator face plate? I don’t know what the stator face plate is if you could circle it on a diagram or something. Also does + or - go on the stator plate or test both ways?
M boards doesn’t say what there flat side measurement is, but I’ve heard that the precision of the Flipsky motor shafts are not great. I’m almost certain the motor shaft is too small? Should I scrap the motors and find better ones?
Motors have 3 phase leads (A B and C, just label them at random), you’ll want to measure resistance from A to B, B to C, and A to C
Then you measure to the part of the motor you screw into when you mount the motor (has 4x M4 threads in it) in continuity mode, if you have continuity then there’s a short to ground which means melted insulation
Probe colors or signs don’t matter for this at all
That’s probably why they don’t match, every brand does it different for some reason, you can shim it with a piece of metal if you want, but I’d recommend just getting the FS pulley to match the FS motor, the newer FS stuff (battle hardened) is decent
So A-B B-C makes sense, but are you saying I stick one probe into the threads that hold the motor to the motor mount? What if I don’t feel like taking the motors off the mount? I was thinking I’d take the multi strait to my half assembled board
I’ll be testing the motors but if I don’t find any problems, would you assume the motors are good to go?
The test for phase to phase should be enough, if you can see the screw that threads into the motor you can measure continuity to that as long as it’s not coated in black oxide or paint
Its an installation that required removing Solo from its native heatsink, in the process it was installed onto a new heatsink with a bolt that was too tall and shorted a few pins on the sensor port this shorted the logic stage.
I recomend being extremy careful when removing the controller from its native heatsink and housing.
When you say it shorted out the logic stage, does it look like there was other damage to the board beyond that part connected to the sensor port or could it be repaired by replacing just that IC?
