So rather than hijacking @tuckjohn’s excellent build thread any further, i feel like we should continue the discussion here.
There’s several examples that i’m sure are scattered around the forum, maybe we can link them here as we find them
Thank you Sir, much appreciated. Glad you started a thread about using copper braid for battery builds.
This photo was the final straw in convincing me not to use braid on Nothing Fancy
It’s a pretty convincing photo 
That looks like a demo photo, what’s the story behind it? Like how do you even 
a local guy here not on the forums has an old photo of long braid spanning between two bricks in a large pack across a flex spot failing he showed me. There it made sense but in this pic it looks like the pgroups in one cell weren’t connected in any way?
My latest use of mixed braid and sil wire:
Each cell of the enclosure is a solid brick with the span between cells done with wire because there is movement between the cells as the deck flexes. A different brick build wirh 0 flex and 100% braid:
I dont see how either of these could fail that way.
Ive got 1000s of miles on two other boards built this way and haven’t seen anything that would make me think this was a failure mode, the first here used the braid before i heard the good word but it is still doing well, had it open a few weeks ago and no signs of wear
I think the biggest problem with braid is that these types of failures definitely happen, but it’s very difficult to determine exactly WHY they happen.
There are MANY packs built the same way running for 1000s of kms I’m sure, but there are also a significant number of them out there rhat have failed spectacularly.
I feel like it’s probably got a lot to do with the type of braid used, the way it’s installed and WHERE it’s installed.
I have no issues using braid in a monolithic pack that’s not gonna see any flex.
I feel like the danger zone is when we start using braid in flex packs. And the shorter the length of the braid, the bigger the risk IMO
Part of the problem i think: no product quality control. Braid is sold as a sleeve or as a conductor or as a decoration or whatever and the product you get changes often.
Two pieces of braid from the same seller both sold as 1/2”. Both very different products. One is equal to a #12 plus a little and the other is larger than #10
100% agree
Sorry this is slightly off tangent. Why do people spend hours insulating their batteries but then only cover the series connections with Kapton? Surely there will still be friction between them and the deck?
There won’t? It will never touch the deck or anything ever.
… but also the kapton is just under the silicone the silicone is for water, the kapton is to make digging it out of the wire not a huge pain if i have to fix something. And also maybe you didn’t see the heat shrink on all of these or it is a pic before waterproofing or one of those accidental compliments and i accept 
i don’t do commissions though 
Braid is a lot harder to use properly. Takes a lot more soldering skill to not fuck it up.
The longer the lead is the more it makes sense to use braid. But if you could avoid it it’s just easier if you do.
I agree with you but im not so sure i would consider that a positive, i just lit my cigarette with a blow torch - not necessarily the sharpest box of rocks over here
I think we may be speaking past each other because I’m also confused.
I didn’t list any positives, my comment boils down to “you probably just should not use braid”
I used braid on a carbon fiber deck (stiff) thane board. Opened the pack after 1000km and it looked good as new. I believe within segments it’s definitely a good way to keep it low profile
No i think we are really close here - See i read: it’s hard to do well - so know it’s harder and will take more work. If you don’t do good work or have a skill deficit dont. I didn’t read any positives either but
Its inherent positives are not really disputed here : it is low profile - looks clean when well done with high quality product - is a very dense conductor so can replace more bulky wiring where space is limited and high amperage is needed/wanted.
That makes me wonder, have we figured out the silicone gauge equivalent of common copper braids we use?
In my flex pack, TomiBoi enclosure similar to what you have pictured, I built it almost exactly the same way still going strong. Big difference though is I heat shrinked the braid that needed to stretch further to make connections. For extra durability and chaffing resistance.
But looking at these pictures I suppose I could still see the ends right at the nickel still tearing. But that would require a lot of lateral vibration imo.
Same for my raceboard, the RE44 flexes the tiniest bit but the braid looks the same as day 1
Braid is excellent for space saving, it’s also time saving (1 piece of braid versus 2 or 3 wires that require wire stripping).
I still wouldn’t use it on a mega flexy pack but it’s great for non moving joints
It is worth noting it’s very easy to screw up braid by soldering it wrong
I silicone my packs into the enclosures so there is no movement lateral or otherwise. you have to split the shrink to take them out but i don’t care i see it as an ounce or protection keeps the dr away. I can’t imagine braid which is only flexible in one dimension doing well with any lateral flex/vibration - you might be on to something here.
If you’ve ever played with led adhesive strips they act very similar and need to be carefully manipulated and folded/rolled to make any kind of lateral change to the direction of their placement and any change of the plain of installation needs to be carefully isolated from vibration or they fail similarly- tearing and breaking the traces.
I kinda think of braid as a bus that can be molded into position but once it’s in it’s best to avoid additional flex - like it’s flexible but not adjustable if that makes sense
