There will be also a new Molicel INR-21700-M50A
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nice if the value are accurate I could go 16s4p instead. Need to see price. Usually they are expensive
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ok going tomorrow then to BRICO City. Do you know a specific value for it? I will probably find multiple one no?
If you can check the sunkko you have would be great!
This is the one I need to replace B16
Do you know why it has 2 inputs and 2 outputs?
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Get a C16
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trying to find it here but no luck so far https://www.hubo.be/nl/Zoekresultaten.html?q=stroomonderbreker+c16
I know they have them. I have bought one a month back. Just go to the store and look for a c16. If you donât find it just ask. They have it
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but 16 is the Amp? Otherwise why should I get the same Amp?
Yeah easy,
One side (2wires, black:fase, blue: N (connected to earth in the electricity cabine, but donât touch it! The real earth wires is the yellow one)) is from the power off the main connector and the other side are the wires to your house
got it thanks.
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16 is indeed the A, you canât go bigger because when your circuit would have a high current you will melt your cables and not let turn the breaker off.
A,B,C is just the way off powering off. A spotwelder is like a shortcircuit on those cables. But it is so short that you are not going to melt your cables. But your A or B circuit breaker think we have a big short so they turn off. C turn off too, just some milliseconds later. And because off those extra milliseconds the weld is done and for the breaker everything is again fine so it would not turn off.
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you wonât be disappointed in the K-weld. have had if for nearly a year now and the welds just unbelievably consistent. I have hade two friends use the thing as well as myself use it on three batteries and the welds are just idiot proof.
i dont get why people use spot welding pens. it is so hard to get clean contact with both probes when they are stuck together like so. you either need individual the have individual spring mechanisms for the probes or just use the the probes separately like I do.
I have tried some pens and 3d printed fixtures as well as the old car battery solenoid stuff. but in my opinion consistent welds are a large factor in making a reliable battery. that plus lots of silicone goop and you are half way there.
back to my book about the k-weld. I am currently using it in conjunction with the recommended: https://hobbyking.com/en_us/turnigy-battery-nano-tech-5000mah-3s-65-130c-lipo-pack-xt-90.html?___store=en_us
If you hammer on with welds the thing will overheat, in other words If you have all the batteries glued up and nickel precut and ready to go you can easily go over the batteries limits. the battery is the weak link and gets quite hot. and you will also have to recharge if for every something like 40 batteris, with 6 welds on both sides of each battery (dont fully quote me on that).
the welds are consistant through the whole range of the batteries capacity until maybe the last 20-25% and then the welds power just gets slightly weaker.
the welding unit itself is cool as a cucumber
however the wires and probes are the second in line thing to get hot.
so I might add another battery in parallel. And try to cool it in a simple way.
wires area bit harder as they wont fit into the probes if they are larger and are a real struggle to solder if especially if you just ran out of the âgood solderâ, and are out of flux. but an over volted ts100 can do it however, but it was a struggle
so i might have to think through my choices regarding cooling down the wires. and probes. (weld outside in the snow 
)
in conclusion just buy the damn thing
I know that is amazing but I personally do not make more than 2 batteries a year and kweld, shipping, batteries in parallel is almost 300Euro. There is also the maletrics but is almost the same.
ya batteries is a large part of the cost so cheeping out on the actual welder idk. but meh Iâm a poor student, step down you pizza consumption to once a day and eat rice instead and buy your beer in bulk in Germany instead of Sweden and you are golden.
I can take your cnc for 300 if you want
eh eh, is not about pizza 
. I build everything from scratch most of the time and spent quite a lot this period for the projects I am working on. I need to set a fix budgets or it will start to be a problem 
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I used the malectrics for my packs and itâs really nice!
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yeh know it but the price difference is not much, I was hoping in a black friday but also Hobbyking did not applied any sales on the batteries
My friend wants a parallel battery for his 100v EUC.
For max range I think 5Ah 21700s are the best for weight and size.
I need a 24S BMS. Not sure what kind I should get for a parallel battery. Lots of active balancing 24S BMS come up when I search.
I wish I would have bought the kweld but I didnât know about it at the time. I have a $150usd sunkko welder and it works just fine on .15mm but If I could go back I would have got the kweld.
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Theres 2 Parts of protection on a MSB (miniature circuit breaker)
Overload protection (to much current been pulled over time protection)
Shot Circuit (A very high load under very short time). in the UK this shout be with in 0.4 or 5 seconds depending on the circuit.
16A is for the overload of the circuit
Type B,C,D is for Short Circuit (a spot welder is creating a temp Short Circuit this is why it is tripping) normal you use a C or D on circuits that have a high start up load eg Motors so the start up dose not cause nuisance triping. I would normally calculate the cable factors and it normally requires larger cables to still achieve the correct tripping times within the regs.
you will also get a PSC (perspective short circuit) this is measured in KA normal 6KA or10KA) this is how much the current the breaker can take safely auto disconnect
you suppose to check the ZS is is low enough by measuring the R1+R2+ZE resistance as a Higher rated Type brakes needs a better earth path to operate correctly
R1=Live cable
R2=Earth Cable
ZE=Resitance from the electrical incoming supply back to the power company transformer and back to the electrical incomer Earth (this could be a Nurtal depending on what supply you premises have)
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best explanation ever! Thanks a lot