it’s always give or take, you either have a speed king board that’s stable as a rock and not very agile, or a fun surfy dkp or something like that low speed casual board. But, this is my next project, which is to combine both onto a same build, and I’m experimenting with different parts now. If you wanna discuss this further, maybe dm me @esk8victoria ?
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When I first built my board, I had those 100mm foam mtb wheels, I never liked them but it was all I could afford. 25mph was hard for me to reach and I thought it was just my riding skills. I recently put pneumatics on and extended the wheel base by a couple of mm, I was cruising around and decided to check my speed and I was comfortably at 30mph
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Maybe in your case, the problem was the more dampened road vibrations that gave you the confidence. I think you would’ve been fine at 30mph on a very nice road even if you were still using those 100mm foam mtbs.
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Sorry I don’t facebook LoL (if that’s what you mean)
lol it was a instagram @ but k xd
No, dont agree, if you learn to ride more loosely you can have both, not the other way around.
Gots to train them anklez, but ofcourse there is always a tradeoff.
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Yes, facebook 
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I mean it is totally up to your own will to decide if you’re willing to bet your life on your ankles. I personally prefers to rely more on the physics side of things rather than trusting my body’s limits, because at 80km/h a helmet won’t save you after your ankles tire out, but physics will prevent them overworking in the first place.
Another thing to consider is that not all riders are fit, or trained. You can’t just let them take the board and go ham right? Saying “got to train them anklez” is basically telling a person to not use the elevator to carry the piano 6 flights up and use the stairs instead. The original post is asking about pricipals of the physical properties of the board in order to reduce wobbles, not for your ankles lol.
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If you want to ride a dragster in the city thats fine by me, no need to go 80, especially if you cant ride properly whether you are old or young or disabled. I prefer a sportscar anyway.
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The point I was trying to make was to have different builds based on the environment or usage is the better solution for most people lol. I get that you’re cool with your ankles, but us normies gotta ride too.
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Dude wtf im not swinging my big dick 80 km/h here, im impressed that you did it, im just saying that people need to be able to ride that stuff properly before doing it and that that adds a LOT to stability. I can go 80 with bricks as bushings…until i cannot.
There is training needed for this. This is not a vehicle that you “just ride” and adjust the build around.
If it was, it would be a car (and people need training for that even).
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Plus it asks “how to gain stability” to which i answered “training”
So i believe my posts are quite fair.
And yes i always take 6 flights of stairs to my appartment, keeps me fit.
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I would like to interject my much needed opinion on the matter…
Stability, while Websters dictionary was close with, ability to stay and blah blah nonsense, stability is based on happiness. Happiness is based on foundation. Foundation should be built on a rock. Yes I’m going cheebus on you heathens. So with my opinion givin, please for the love of God work on your circles. And if you have kankles I appreciate your effort in flattening the curve, of Everything. No offense. A fence is. …here we go again… Fuck:metal:
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Stability is subjective and we do our best to help you tune a setup to your definition of stability. Stability from our viewpoint is when you are no longer have to think about the system beneath your feet, just the throttle and brake in your hand.
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I’m of a different opinion when it comes to wide trucks. I belive wide is more stable. The reason being you have much finer control over the movement of the truck. With a narrow hangar it takes smaller movements to max out the truck lean angle. With a wider truck you have more control over the “range” of truck movement. Same with loose sloppy trucks, one small movement causes the truck to move a lot. Tighter bushings act as a steering damper. Anyone that races anything with a motor knows steering dampers are a real thing and do work.
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One of the main ways we approach stability at RipTide regardless of the components involved is to allow the front truck to turn easier or more than the rear truck. It is a rare than an eSk8 needs to be ridden switch or backwards, so there is little downside in what we do to acquire stability. We have been concentrating recently on increasing deck lean which allows us to reduce the base plate angles both front and back. On my Stooge Raceboard, I am running a 32 degree front and a 0 to 5 degree rear for Mountain Hill Climbs, for short tracks, I change it up to deal with the tighter course to perhaps a 48/8 or a 40/16 degree split.
All things being equal from the least stable to the most stable, a symmetrical setup is the least stable (this is how most manufacturers set up their boards) and a split setup with the front turning more than the rear is the most stable.
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That’s what I do too. I’m using a Evo deck that already splits the angle and a further 15-degree baseplate on the back which makes it basically flat.
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I cannot imagine that thing working well over 10km/hr. Maybe only a shopping mall flex until people start tripping on the “follow me self driving” ankle biters and they ban all of them
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