Weird theories and ideas thread! any ideas welcome

If the motor voltage matched the outlet voltage, wouldn’t that make it easier to make the charger have to do less?

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Any 230v vescs around the market though?

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Outlet would have to be 3 phase to charge the battery with “regen”. This poses a problem as no-one uses 3 phase outlets. Not to mention that’s a HUGE amount of power and would not end well.

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Hmmm, so maybe a 600V turnbuckle outlet.

This is getting into car supercharger territory.

You’d want a small inverter but there is no way you’d get an inverter of decent size into the size of a board

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So my dad is an enthusiastic cyclist and we were chatting today and he mentioned some bikes have a system that allows free rolling but at the same time when you reverse the pedals it can brake and reverse

Why not use this system on esk8 for the following reasons

Multiple gears
Free rolling
Still get fully functional reverse and brakes

Thanks if anyone knows anything about this

They require a physical shift over that happens when pedaling in reverse. Would need to be implemented in an esk8 super small but I’ve discussed before free roll energy saved vs regen braking recouped.

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Only bike I’ve seen where you pedal backwards and it brakes is w a coaster brake.

Bikes either have a true hub motor where they can regen brake but don’t coast well or they use a geared hub w a planetary gear inside and they coast well but can’t regen. I’ve never seen any other options.

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Gearbox(cvt?)+ freewheeling does sound pretty cool for a cruiser. Brakes, are pretty useful so that would have to be part of the design.

My idea to solve that was an electric clutch that could switch on and off freewheeling.

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Justin of grin tech who owns endless-sphere has an esc he designed w a coasting feature for true hub motors. It’s intended for bikes but don’t see why wouldn’t work with a board. The esc feeds the motor a constant trickle of current to overcome the cogging torque.

For a true mechanical change you could strip the magnets out and insert them skewed and get a good coast and the air gap thickness would shrink…possibly making up from the poorer magnetic connection from being skewed. Or could add thin magnets between what’s there. All the outrunners I’ve seen have a hugely thick air gap at maybe .6mm. I don’t know why they don’t bother going thinner and the rest of the motor’s machining tolerances are tight.

My point is u should be able to get an easy coast mechanically while still having the same power output to heat produced(km). If u can break down the magnet glue with acetone

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What about running 2 sets of hubs, both set up to free roll. 1 does acceleration only, 1 does braking/regen only. Or can you not freeroll reverse the front wheels :thinking:

I’m stretching thin my knowledge of bike/clutch systems.

Running 24s+ with small induction motors (i know not practical/feasable for a ton of reasons)

with the planetary gear hub motor with a clutch it coasts but doesn’t coast as well as a regular wheel . It’s mainly done for better efficiency. Every easy trick to make an easy coast comes at the expense of the motor’s power output (more heat for a given torque), but u could compensate w the smaller air gap or hallbach. Only design with an easy coast and non-compromised performance motor is mellow boards and uses a very unique segmented stator maybe you’ve seen.

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I guess this belongs here…

Using these cells on a mountainboard in a diff config probably 13s (42.9v) and charge at 4C (which is 12min from flat to full). Doesnt need to be charged at 4c ofc.

Maybe like a 13s4p 10ah battery with a but ton of amps

Talk me out of it? IDK. I just want to do something with these cells for some reason.

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If I recall correctly, they need a special charger because of the nominal voltage right? Everything else looked solid on them.

I think 14s with these cells = 50.4v = 12s liion?

Nominal 3.3v charged 3.6v wonder how shit the range Will be tho

@b264 what do you know?

That would be great since I already have a high amp
12s charger for my tipo.

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They charge to 3.65V/cell

12S is approximately 10S lipo and charges to 43.8V (or 42.0V works)

14S is approximately 12S lipo and charges to 51.1V (or 50.4V works)

If you don’t charge to the full voltage occasionally though, the cells may not balance as well

They do have about three times the cycle life as li-ion and can charge at 4C

nominal voltage is 3.3V/cell

Found the supposed negatives mooch listed for your consideration, sir

That’s mostly for vape usage

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Yes, that is correct… as are 99% of moochs ratings. Yet many still hold those as the unbiased standard for reliable testing because he gives various discharge and charge curves for cells.

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