Hi all, sorry for the late reply but I ran into problems updating the flipsky firmware via the vesc tool. It keeps asking to do it over and over without actually updating it.
I hit auto connect and get the following message:
The connected vesc has too old firmware. Since the connected vesc has firmware with bootloader support, it can be updated from the firmware page.
Note: If the old firmware is loaded again after the reboot then a bootloader is probably missing.
I also tried uploading a bootloader from the bootloader tab but the same thing keeps happening.
Is it necessary to use the ST-Link v2 for uploading the boot-loader (don’t have one), or are there any alternative means. Any links to simple instructions would be greatly appreciated
I already tried updating the firmware, quote: I ran into problems updating the flipsky firmware via the vesc tool. It keeps asking to do it over and over without actually updating it.
I don’t have it with me atm but I think it’s close to the original firmware.
Original firmware is time dependant. Depends on when you bought it. If it’s old enough, you can’t update it straight to current firmware unless you use an stlink. You’ll have to do a few updates in steps.
Thanx Evwan, I have Fw: v3.40, Hw:: 410 using vesc tool 6.02.
I hit Auto Connect and get the ‘Old Firmware’ message then goto Connection and it says it’s on com1 @ 115200.
I goto Firmware, load the archive and highlighted Fw: v3.55 (first on the list) and hit the down arrow icon to ‘Update the firmware on the connected vesc’. I get a flashing green light then it says it’s done and will reboot within 10 seconds. I leave it for about 30 seconds but can’t ‘Read Firmware Version’ to check the update.
I try the ‘ReConnect last Connection’ but it says ‘invalid serial port com20’? so I just hit the ‘Connect’ icon to connect to com1 but then it says ‘Could not read firmware version, make sure that port really belongs to the vesc’ and if I hit autoconnect it can’t connect at all unless I power down and up again.
I hit ‘Auto connect’ and the process starts all over again.
If I do need an stlink can you point me in the direction of an easy to follow instruction page and possibly a link to a cheapy on ebay so I know I’m getting the right one?
If so then I will try to come and mow your lawn when I get this mower working
If you’re doing everything right (emphasis on uploading the bootloader first) then I couldn’t tell you how to proceed. I have no experience with an STLink, so I cant say much in that dept.
Thanx for the help and for the link to the older versions, I might try V1.09 Fw355 to see if that works being the next available one up from my version but I think it’s going to be the stlink path. I’ll let you know how it goes however I have a lot on my plate atm so it might be a while.
The bigger question here is: why are you trying to update the firmware?
If it’s only because VESC Tool says you should, then that’s not a valid reason. Their goal is to make Trampa money, not to get your lawnmower working. This is MCU firmware that isn’t connected to the internet, not a PC operating system. For a lawnmower, you can probably use the firmware that’s on it now. Remember the goal here is to spin a motor.
If you had some other reason you needed the firmware updated, then that’s another story entirely.
@b264: As I said earlier I can’t connect as is.
I have the stlink now but cant find the vesc default.bin in the vedder github page pointed to in this video.
HURRAY , I now have Fw: v6.02, Hw: 410.
That github FW via the stlink was a bit old but allowed me to update to newer FW via the vesc tool.
Now I need to figure out how to connect, program and operate this 3 wire BLDC motor with the flipsky.
Getting there slowly, just as well I have a petrol mower as well or I’d be living in a jungle by now.
I think the above mentioned Bosch battery pack consists of 20 times 3.6V 2.0Ah high quality Li-ion cells 10 in series and 2 in parallel, total voltage 36 V, total capacity 4.0Ah4000mAh if anyone can confirm that?
at the end of the day, it doesn’t really matter. Vesc tool uses capacity to infer a range, and show a semi accurate gauge. As long as you tell the vesc that it’s dealing with a 10S Li-ion battery, it will use the right voltage cutoffs to prevent over discharge and damage. Put some conservative values for your battery max current, like 15A, which most half decent 10S2P should be able to supply. Most likely low capacity power tools cells can do 10C discharge, so you could pull 40A out of that pack, but start slow and conservative first.
You’d also need to run some of the detection tests for your motor params in in BLDC sensorless mode, but it might be a bit skewed if there is a spinning blade attached. Tests are usually best done without any load, but it should still do the job.
pick the right ADC mode where there is no brake, and no reverse as this doesn’t apply to a lawnmower! There’s an option to invert the spin in case your blade doesn’t cut anything!
I was regurgitating something I remember reading somewhere. But the load wouldn’t be massive in any case, as long as the blade can spin freely and safely (where’s the fun in that???)
It’s a Bosch battery - as per link - and they usually use Samsung cells but I’m not sure in this case but what I wanted the confirmation on was the 10s2p as that’s what the vesc tool asks for. I do appreciate your efforts but do you have an actual helpful answer?
