I have graphs on 2.03 but the arrow keys don’t work. I had to use the remote like normal and just drive it with the trigger and watch the current levels.
Either a bug or operator error, but seemed like a bug based on what I saw. It did make a noise in the motor but never would drive it.
HFI seems to require clean high frequency switching and measurements, so maybe some hardwares can’t meet those requirements? I don’t have tons of spare time right now but we are looking into this a bit. Some people are reporting issues with the new inductance measurement routine which leverages the same algorithm as HFI, and all these complaints seem to be in relation to specific hardware. All the ESCs I have here seem to work fine but I don’t have a lot of the low-budget stuff.
It will be motor dependent and battery dependent. Setting it higher than your battery voltage does nothing for you. If you run measure inductance from the terminal you can see what duty cycle induces what current.
The more duty the more induced ripple current, ripple current generates losses in the ESC and motor so more voltage makes more losses which makes more heat. Lower switching frequency, lower inductance and higher voltage will induce more current and drive losses higher.
The start voltage is only run momentarily so it won’t be a big factor. The other two will dictate more what losses you see. It is also not always true that more voltage equals better signal.
Also report this here because all versions of FW4 have serious problems with jumping values of parts of RT data.
Recently I had the problem with kind of thermal throtteling without hot motors and made logs. Then I downgraded to FW3.65 riding the same track ande made a log to compare.
This might explain why I’m getting hard cutoffs before soft ones when riding hard on my brother’s board. (motor over temperature fault) Surprised people didn’t notice this earlier…
So…after i tried it the last time on February 23rd i once again tried to set HFI up.
i got it to plot (finally) but it does so only for maybe 2 or 3 seconds until it stops. I can hit Full brake again but it still only runs for 2-3 seconds.
Hardware:
Flipsky v6.6 Single
SK3 192kv motor
10s pack
Tool 2.03
FW the latest it lets me install - 4.2
I had to calibrate without the Rx connected. Otherwise it would just tick once as soon as I clicked the Stop icon, wouldn’t whine continuously like on Jeff’s video.