I am on something like 6.1 if I remember correctly, I use the right mode, I juggled with many values and many work very well. I can do stuff you posted on the videos without issues, but I went much farther testing this stuff than your videos show, not sure if you went so far as testing super slow operation (breaking & accelerating while staying under 3-5kph, doing this on slopes while rolling forward, testing smart reverse in these adverse conditions…
and yes, I used your values, they work well for that you tested them for (launching from a standstill) and for only this the operation is (apart form the sound) equal to sensored mode, otherwise not, I can post video proof I just didn’t bother to record any today…
one more thing, I saw in one of your videos which actually did what mine can’t do, that you used coupled mode. so far I have only used the 45deg mode and for some reason did not look into coupled mode yet. will test coupled mode soon I guess
All the videos in this thread are from a board that I don’t own anymore, and the testing was done with Trampa vescs, so those may perform better than other ESCs.
I’m running 45deg with the settings I posted above on my 4wd mountainboard, which has d100s esc’s with phase filters. Phase filters are not as good as phase shunts for sHFI, but they do supposedly help.
The front two motors on my mountainboard have sensors and I’m using those. On the rear motors the sensors got destroyed pretty quickly so I switched over to 45deg sHFI.
The only difference I have noticed between sensor and sHFI, is that when I’m holding position on a steep hill the sensored motors have a tendency to cog a little, whereas the sHFI motors have zero cogging.
I’ve never cared for smart reverse. Once I found full current mode with reverse limited to -10k erpm, that’s all I have used. It’s much better IMO.
interesting, I have the exact opposite behaviour here, zero cogging in this special situation with sensored setup, and a little cog with sHFI unfortunately, this is why I’m so anal about not calling it “same as” or “equal to”…
I don’t like it either tbh, but it worked flawlessly in sensored mode, I thought you used smart reverse but did never specify, it probably makes all the difference, care to share your reverse setup details? I want this, too, and then the cogs may as well disappear, and I might consider keep using sHFI…
Pretty understandable. PCs aren’t very common to own these days unless you create media content or are a pro gamer. Most people get by with their phone, a smart TV and a game console.
not kidding, I even had to buy an android to actually be able to finish a motor setup once in my life. mac version did not work reliably back with intel macs, now with m1 no chance in hell afaik, and now you are surprised? am an surprised.
I literally don’t know a single person over the age of 10 that doesn’t have a computer, and none of them create media or are pro gamers.
I would be careful throwing around generalizations like that. I could easily generalize and say that based on my experience, everyone has one.
But certainly if you’re building vehicles, having a computer, a soldering iron, a multimeter, and some basic hand tools would probably be pretty high on the must-haves list.
I use vesc app on my iphone all the time. It’s a great app. I’ve never had any issues with it.
There’s not much to it. Run “full current” mode, and under ERPM limits, set the reverse ERPM to -10,000 or -5,000
My guess is that the settings I happened upon that work great for me are not the ideal settings for someone with different motors and ESC. Maybe higher voltages are needed, maybe lower gain, maybe coupled instead of 45deg, maybe the ESC just doesn’t work great for sHFI?
I have run sHFI on a handful of ESCs just fine, but maybe not all of them work well for it?
We are playing with the same voltage parameters so it would make sense to take a similar approach.
sHFI coupled and 45deg are both different algorithms than the regular HFI in that video.
In the video, HFI plots the motor position with the command:
Foc_plot_hfi_en
I assume if you wanted to tune the voltages to get the ideal settings for sHFI 45 deg and coupled, you would have to figure out what the correct command is in the vesc terminal to display those types of sHFI.
Tuning voltages to regular HFI may get you the best settings for HFI, but I don’t know how close it would be to the ideal settings for the sHFI modes.
I don’t know what the right command is to get vesc to plot/report the motor position of sHFI 45 deg or coupled, but vesc discord could probably help you there.
no, too early to celebrate, cogs did not disappear, lots of jerking around at the crossing between forward and backward motion, this honestly sucks haha… way worse than sensored.
here’s the vid:
btw anyone know what safe max voltages are for RUN are? I try to increase voltages now to see if I can get rid of jitter. edit: ok tried this to 12v, no change, very slow stuff makes this system go haywire, I want my sensors back, is no sensors on a new motor a case for warranty? bioboards wants me to pay shipping for them to “fix” it for me.
New motors should definitely have working sensors. Did you check that the sensor voltage is correct for the vesc? Sometimes esc’s have a switch for moving between 3.3v and 5v.
Personally I would just pay the shipping and get it back to them to check out. There’s a good chance it’s a setup related issue and the motor is fine. I’ve been using vesc for a few years and I still fuck things up all the time.
Anyone running it on large reacher motors who would be willing to share their settings? I don’t have the time to solder up the sensors for the skate event going on from tomorrow morning (and it’s 3am already) so planning to run silent hfi. Any idiot proof settings that will work well or at least half decent would go a long way. Can’t really tweak it once setup because no Bluetooth module in the board
Is it for racing or are you just in a sprint to get it done for an group ride?
If it’s a group ride, I’d recommend just running sensorless FOC and give yourself some more time to play with sHFI later.
If you really need sHFI, I’d start with sHFI 45 v0v7 with HFI gain reduced to 0.100. If it doesn’t work perfect on the first try on default voltages (no stuttering, 100% reliable forward and backward), just up all the voltages in 2v increments until things are perfectly smooth.
Thanks! It’s for a group ride and eventually the board will have sensors. Thanks for the tweaking tips!
I actually haven’t tried unsensored in a while. It’s for a board with bindings, so no kickpush. Isn’t unsensored really jittery like it was a while ago?
Actually I ended up running vss and it works decently, much better than I thought/ remembered it. That’s what it defaulted to after detection. Was having a lot of trouble getting vesc tool to cooperate on anything
