Hi all,
im building my own setup and wanted to know which vesc is best for an 10s3p Battery that has 36v and 90Amps. (Which is going to power two motors, Flipsky 6354 190KV) I bought an flipsky 4.2 Dual Plus but that blew out on me when trying to set it up. So im kind of worried about ordering from them again. So my question is: Can anyone give some advice about which Vesc would be good for my situation?
Kind Regards
Hey, welcome to the forum! Can you give us more information about the battery? What kind of cells are you using? For 90 amps, I’m assuming it’s using cells such as p42a. For motors you can go with those flipsky motors, just make sure they’re battle-hardened. However, most people on the forum would advise you to avoid flipsky. You should look into a vesc 6 based ESC from other manufacturers like MakerX, which should also be considerably cheaper than the flipsky considering how high FS jacked their prices.
This is good Go-FOC DV6 3-12S Dual 100A ESC for electric Skateboard Base On VESC6 - MakerX
but if you’re on a budget and don’t have much to spend, this is also a decent ESC. The most Affordable ------ E-board dual ESCs Go-FOC DV4 base on VESC4 - MakerX
Just be aware MakerX doesn’t have the best customer service.
Also, the ESC requests amps from the battery. So if the battery “is 90amp” it means it can safely supply up to 90Amps continuously. The ESC can request up to however many amps its programmed to. If it wanted to request 2 amps it could. You could use a 1amp ESC with a 10000000amp battery. It’s the voltage that defines compatibility.
Thank you for your reply, im using these Battery Cells “NKON | Sanyo NCR2070C 20700 3500mAh - 30A CLEAR WRAP - 21700 & 20700 - Li-ion - Oplaadbare batterijen” sanyo-ncr2070c. I found on banggood the same vesc for 110 that i used before. And the motors are the battle hardened ones yes.
Are you (planning on) running a single or dual motor?
Make sure to post photos of your battery building process so we can check it for safety. I personally post all of my steps even though I already know the safe methods because an extra set of eyes on a battery never hurt anybody.
Dual Motor
Ill make a picture of how i have it right now.
Do you have pics of your welds and series connections? I hope I don’t come off as condescending!
I do not sorry, but i followed an tutorial that went over everything for almost an hour so it should be good i hope lol. i spotwelded 3x 0.15mm thick nickel strips on each connection that i made. aswell that they dont come off easy. thank you for your concerns though 
Okay, wanna link the tutorial you followed?
I am asking because skateboard batteries require different building methods than your standard battery. We have a lot of vibrations, flex, and high current demand. What I need to know most is if you used nickel for your series connections. That will eventually fatigue and fail, with the chance of a fire.
This is the video i watched. i also made the two packs especially apart from each other and connected them with an 10awg wir. so that it can vibrate a bit and not fail on me. Also im not planning on pulling many Amps out of the battery.
Okay, so thats good that you used silicone wire as a flex point.
This guy pavel is using a bit of antiquated method. Ideally, you solder to nickel and then spot weld it to the cells. This reduces the amount of heat going into the cell. The better you are at soldering and the more powerful your iron is; the less of an issue this is.
So just keep that in mind. Consider following this thread and picking up some of the latest and greatest in battery building technique.
WELCOME TO THE FORUM 
Thank you for your advice, its much appreciated
