40A per VESC
Looking a bit more into these values that sounds low to me.
Motor is rated for 65A and motor max so would I set this for absolute current as the Battery Current Max protects the battery?
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The value I showed you is part of the vesc tool as a safety measure, and doesn’t impact how 95% of riders ride (when the value is at its default, it would only impact you if you’re pulling over 150a per vesc… Clearly an unsafe number on 4.xx hw. )
Change it back to it’s default and you’ll be all set
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Default is 130A
Looking forward to trying it out.
Thanks for the help 
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Your motor max setting is fairly conservative, if you think you’d like more torque I’d bump it up in increments of 10. Same for your motor min, if you feel like you need more brakes just bump the number up (down) in increments of 5 
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Yeah, for some reason I had it in my head that the motors were rated to 40A. Another check showed they can do 65A so I’ll definitely be bumping that one up
Tcp only need to be on the same network to work.
Absolute max current, the general advice for this forum is to have it as high as it lets you set it, but default is fine as well.
This value MUST be higher than the rest because in sudden changes in current, speed, throttle input, etc., Spikes occur. It only takes a few ms for vesc to adjust and no damage is done, but the value is measured and if it’s above the absolute max, a fault code is thrown (abs overcurrent) and the vesc cuts off
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I wouldn’t take them too high, flipsky definitely overrate their motors.
Unless you’re riding like a beast you’ll rarely reach your motor max if it’s set crazy high. You change how much power your board consumes through how you ride, not only through the vesc settings.
E: I can’t think of a better way to word this, am lazy. Sorry.
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I suspect that definitely was causing your issue. The vesc and battery can handle much much higher short burst current than it’s constant rating, that is what the setting is for. it calcutes the default based on your battery info so leave it as is. You basically set it so your motor eats all of the current cap by itself and throws a over current whenever it hits max current draw. You can also go into the settings and change the over current cutoff time ( the time the motor stops before coming back on ) to something less jarring like .100 (1/10 of a second) so you notice it but it doesn’t throw you so much off balance. Also make sure " Slow ABS current limit " is set to true.
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Set them to 50 tops I would say. You don’t want to be pulling a ton of amps through the battery. I think you should be good for about 80 max(40/vesc). All of your vesc setting are combined when it comes to battery draw so if you are pulling 40 amps from each motor 80 amps is discharging from the battery. You don’t want to over discharge your battery. when I finally get my second motor shipped I’ll probably have them set at 40/motor and my battery can handle 100. Always leave some headroom! You most likely will never pull that many amps through the motor anyways though. Look at your vesc logs and see how much each is pulling when you are under a good amount of use
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Raining today… gutted that I can’t get out and test it 
However after some super scientific tests in the hallway I can now accelerate hard even on thick carpet without it cutting out like it did on concrete the other day.
Hoping to get out and try it on the hills tomorrow
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This is the same exact problem I had on my build, max motor amps at 150 and works perfect.
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Did my test run today…
Problem Solved! I am now terrified of going full throttle 
The hill I was struggling with I was able to accelerate straight up (start of the log) and had no cut outs trying out full throttle acceleration tests too. (end of log)
Thanks everyone for helping out, you must know your stuff to be able to solve it from such limited info. I feel you’ve helped me understand what all the current values mean now
Quick couple of questions on the log.
- Is it possible to show more GPS points? I only got four
- Is there any good info for dummies on how the VESC works? I don’t quite follow how the motor can get more amps than the VESC is pulling from the battery unless the VESC is lowering the voltage
Log link for anyone curious…
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1_1_3Rdd_prk__RPaSal-RHZQey-tPx1k/view?usp=sharing
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So much ^^^^
Took reading it twice, but It helped me comprehend the relationships. I’d say read vesc tool guide first and then that thread. Once you can understand the shartis graphs, you’re on the road to enlightenment.
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It had way better content in there from the infamous @dickoz. But that jerk fucked us over
Hahaha he’ll be back sooner or later I swear he had a similar tantrum on the builders forum and took a year long break. That was still the weirdest most unexplainable situation, musta had shit going on in his personal life.
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Even if he does come back, doesnt change the fact that he robbed us of some really neat content.
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Doesn’t PWM use a duty cycle? So it would be 100% on, or 100% off, and it just quickly cycles between on and off. I think a motor operating at “60 amps”, yet only pulling 30 amps from the battery, is working at a 50% duty cycle. Essentially, that 60 amps the motor is getting is in pulses. It’s not a continuous flow of electricity. It’s taking a steady 30 amps from the battery, to give the motors a 60 amp pulse, and it does it through a series of capacitors and mosfets. This is my best guess.
There is some truth to what you said but it is more complicated than that. The motor is 3 coils really electrically speaking, each coil acts as an inductor and also drives the permanent magnets around into position by opening and closing the gates of MOSFETs. The exact details of how much current is applied to one of the three coils at any given moment is determined in part by if you are using BLDC/trapezoidal commutation or are using FOC/sinusoidal commutation. In both cases the voltage is increasing and decreasing but FOC is a smooth wave to push the motor around with roughly the same amount of torque through the entire rotation, with bldc it is punching the voltage up to max quicker and dropping it quicker before powering the next coil. Since the coils act as inductors they store some of the energy put into them and retain some voltage from what I gather so there is back electromagnetic force (back emf) that the esc has to overcome with whatever voltage it is applying to keep the thing spinning.
In broad terms what you are getting at is still kind of true at low speed the motor may see high amps if asking for a lot of acceleration or moving a large mass and the battery may still have pretty low amp draw but as rpm increases so does back emf and at some point the full voltage (or at least 95% of it) gets sent into the motor at full throttle and max rpm.
Personally I set my battery max amp draw based on what my battery can tolerate without damage, then for motor amps adjust for feel… If it puts me on my butt then it is too high, if not then it is probably just right. For braking want it to brake fast but not lock up and slide or make the belt skip.
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