LTT BMS is pretty well known for that and widely used.
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If you are using a VESC a CAN enabled charge only BMS is the way to go. FlexiBMS or Ennoid
LLT is cheap and works, it just doesn’t talk to the vesc, but you can view it on a smartphone/davega
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Ennoid LLT - I see ~200$, is that considered as a cheap one? Or I’m looking wrong?
Llt is $40ish
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Sounds way more reasonable. Could you share a link or something? I guess my brain is crippled these days, as I clearly cannot find this on my own 
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LTT=SMART BMS
tons on ali
Flexi bms, neptune bms, these are the fancy ones, llt is on budget but it works well
But you will only be able to see the voltage of p groups, not individual cells
The cells in a p-group all have the same voltage.
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Hi All. Iam just bought reclaimed cells. Price was great, but now I see why. Have you some ideas how to fix damaged isolation and how to remove burrs from welded strips?
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Yep-replace the wrap entirely, and personally I prefer using a Dremel with a sanding drum to take the nickel bits off
**Also, be reaaaaly gentle with the sanding drum. I’d err on the side of less sanding is more material sanded off, just to make sure you don’t accidentally shave off too much.
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Replace the wrap? You mean remove it out? And use kapton tape instead? Or just fix gaps with kapton tape? Thank You a lot for Your help🙏
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No, I mean cut off the original wraps entirely and replace it with new shrink wrap.
Kapton tape isn’t use for physical insulation like the wrap currently on your cells. It’s too thin for abrasion resistance. Kapton is better for preventing things like voltage arcs and other things I can’t remember right now (you should Google it though). It also has a high tolerance for heat.
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Thank You , that sound good.So replace it is from Your point of view better then cover old wrap with new one?
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Yep, personally I’d just replace it. I suppose you could just wrap new shrink over the old but then there would just be unnecessary extra thickness. 
Thank You 
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Cell two’s tear at the top exposes the the cathode, quite scary.
Idk what nkon were thinking those cells have a lot of added risk.
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I purchased 9 of these and stripped out the cells.
It was a lot of work to pull them out and rewrap them all.
Then I did a capacity test on all 240+ cells.
It took forever but in the end I had a huge pile of good cells for about $.75 each.
I ended up with a very solid 72v 36ah triangle pack that is currently powering one of my ebikes.
I couldn’t guess at the time I put into cleaning and testing all the cells.
But the good cells for that cheap in the end made it worth it to me.
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This is something im considering since the aftermarket 72v upgrades for a sur ron / talaria sting is too expensive was im wondering if its worth it for me to build one. i got no experience with battery building but im sure i can learn if the savings are worth it
A lot of worthy insight in your replies, thank you.
I’m considering these cells - I have a decent offer for them. Now I’m wondering the proper process:
- should I polish the old weld remainings flat? any safety advice?
- the black insulation - can I leave it or should I replace it with fishpaper circles? Or should I put fishpaper circles on top of that black insulation?
- how should I test all cells? To put the at the same voltage, that’s for sure, but what else? Capacity?
This will be my first battery pack so I want to be sure with every step.
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Yes
Use a dremel with sanding / cutting bit and VERY light pressure
Or hand file, but that is very annoying
Personally I have no idea what that black stuff is, I’d probably just put rings on top if it’s not too thick
OPUS smart charger on Amazon
I’m in the middle of making a video on another battery, but teaching tech has some really useful info here:
In particular, his smart charger suggestion and use of repackr are great
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