At this point one could also just install a Qi pad under their grip tape for phone charging. Actually I think that’s a swell idea.
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Time to put pads in your shoes and the send that off to your hand to charge your remote
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Wouldn’t even need a battery in your remote, just wear your Qi suit
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I did this on my first DIY ever I built in college
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“Charging rapidly” - doubt it. 
Cool project! Although personally I would put my phone on essentially very rough sandpaper.
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yeah it was more of a neat trick that didn’t make it past a deck swap
When EPR becomes mainstream this may actually become a (more?) reasonable thing to do.
Next gen power delivery will do 240watts @48 volts.
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Would a cable like this help?
Help with what?
We aren’t really limited by the cable here, there are plenty of cables capable of carrying all that USB PD has to offer
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This cable can do 6 amps. I guess their are other cables out there that can do the same thing.
In this case it’s about watts not amps.
Let’s say a hypothetical wire can safely carry 5 amps at 5 volts.
Breaking out the old p=vi gives 25watts.
To a point that same wire will happily do 5 amps at 10 volts so 50 watts.
But if you try and shove 10 amps through it at 5 volts it will get unhappy and burn up even though it’s only 50 watts which in the previous example it was fine with.
This is effectively how fast charging and EPR (the link I posted) get more power(watts) through the same wire safely)
EPR boosts the max voltage of the power delivery spec to 48 volts which at 5 amps is 240watts.
**Please correct me if I’m wrong. It’s been a long time since I decided that coding was better than that scary electromagnetics class and I bailed on the ee degree.
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…wtf? You’re shattering my worldview here bro.
I’m going for EE because code is tedious and hard and annoying.
Also I guess /derail
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everyone hide their electronics
Yeah that’s called “doing a good job”
Have you heard of verilog?
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Altera flashbacks intensifies
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do tell more
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* USB-C decoy board/port (20V) - ZYPDS, as mentioned above.
* Boost converter - I didn’t need 400W; I initially bought 250W but it had a defect and couldn’t wait for a new one from aliexpress hence me getting something local and thought I’d up the wattage a bit. Note that you can adjust both max current and voltage here (I intentionally capped it at ~1.5A being well aware of the USB-C PD boxes I have.
* Voltmeter/Ammeter combo - not really needed but it’s nice knowing how much juice I’m drawing/supplying. This is currently at 42V (all my boards are 10s right now); I’d adjust it when I finally upgrade to 12S. This is mainly for my folding board which only has 144WH because of size restrictions.
I was just following the lead in the posts earlier in this thread and in this video.
As for the others, 3D printed enclosure, cable (7A rating) with GX12 3pin on one end and barrel on the other.
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You’re a boss. Take the day off. idk why I said that.
any pics of the wiring inside the box?
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