Urban snow mtb | DIY handmade deck | trampa mini spring trucks | 8 inch | 2x FSECS 6.6 | 12s5p 30q | 60km/h

I started this build around 6 months ago or more, It will hopefully be done this coming week.
I Like stiff decks and wanted to ride trampa spring trucks (for some reason) so i decided to make my own. I had no access to any cnc machines or vacumpumps so it is all “handmade” so have mercy :smiley: Also first time working with glass and carbon fibre


Only thing left is to mount the electronics and plug them together, which im very nervous about but it should work.

Wires are routed through the deck so hopefully it will be pretty weather resistant since i plan on riding in bad conditions like rain and snow.

The grip is done with epoxy and some small black stones i found. Do not have a name for it, my girlfriend had to to decorate flower pots. Have not ridden it but feels very grippy and looks nice.

I also would like to repaint the motor since the orange is pretty ugly, i also need to do something to the side of the board however not sure what yet.
This is my first dual build and im exited to feel the power evry1 is talking about

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Good job on the deck, how long do you think it took you to make? What angles are the tips? 30? 35?

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Thanks! I dont know really, if i dont count in drying times of glue and epoxy maybe 35 hours spread out over a long period. The angles are supposed to be 35 but have actually not mesuered the real value after pressing it, however the press is at 35 degres

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This is the true DIY build, congrats. If you are not satisfied at the end, don’t worry. Next one you build will be better

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Does any1 know if its bad to remove to paint on motors?

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You have to remove the cans which can be a pain and then paint the cans seperate from anything else. I actually permanent marker penned my horrible blue sk8 cans and it held up quite well. Ghetto approach but looks ok and if it starts to get a bit tatty you do it again. Funny thing is the texture on the original paint grips the marker pen so it is pretty scratch resistant. If I were to do it again I would use a paint pen though for more depth.

Edit if you want to take the paint off then full removal is necessary

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Okey, i’ll probaly wait a little on that then. Not completely comfortable with taking apart a motor.

Stripping the paint from those cans will be a nighmare because of the ribs. Better off painting them by hand while complete. Don’t spray them unless you dismantle.

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Found some red markers at home gonna try to paint them with thoose for starters :slight_smile:

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Test ride done, some screws felt loose so did not push it but you can feel that it has some power. Ran it very slow up a steep hill and that went very well.

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So today i tried charging my battery and it does not seem to work. I measure 50.4 volt on the backend of the charge-port so that connection seem to be alright. The charger does not switch to red but stays green. I left it in for a while to see if it would charge and it seems to charge really slowly, around 0.05 volt in an hour. Really bummed out right now, was hoping to try it out for real today :sleepy:

did you make the battery pack by your own?
is there a charge/discharge bms on the pack as well?
could be that the bms cut the power off somehow.
if it´s a discharge bms with e-switch, make sure the switch is on.
if no the bms will not give your charger to charge.

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No it was made by acido, it is a charge only bms i dont have acces to the bms without cutting open the heatshrink. I also noticed something weird the voltage mesuerd through the discharge cable is 40.6v and the charge cable is 39v

That can be due to the bms which is wired between the charge port and your pack. Maybe.
I would ask @Acido about what best to do. I think he knows his packs and how best to trouble shoot them.

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Yeag, i’ve sent him a pm, hopefully he knows something :slight_smile:

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How bad is it to charge without a bms? If its broken i wont have any ability to change it for a long while

If it’s a good pack nothing dramatic should happen. If there is a bad cell somewhere inside than the drift between the packs will get more and more over time.
If you charge without bms I would check the individual p group voltage from time to time to make sure they don’t drift more than 0.1V from each other. If the drift is bigger the bms probably can’t balance them out when you install the bms back.

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Thank you! In contact with acido now trying to solve it, hopefully i wont have to resort to this but it’s good to know as backup :smile:

Any1 know what part this is? On it it says IRFB3607 P818J. Pretty sure that’s what causing the problem.
Think the bms model is d140.

Can´t say for sure, but google tells me this

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