I’m currently building a 16S DIY mountainboard and considering a motor upgrade. Before I buy, I wanted to get your thoughts on making the jump from my current 6384 motors to the Flipsky 63100 140KV (with the 10mm D-shaft).
Battery: 16S4P EVE 40Q with Smart BMS [cite: User Correction Ledger: The user corrected the model’s general designation of their electric skateboard battery cells, specifying the precise use of high-discharge EVE 40Q cells., Dated Events, Projects & Plans: The user built a custom 16S4P lithium-ion battery pack with a smart BMS for their electric skateboard, later preparing it for long-term storage balancing.]
ESC: MakerX Go FOC D100S (200A total phase current / 100A per motor) [cite: Description: The user participates in DIY electric rideables, specifically designing, assembling, and maintaining a high-performance custom electric mountainboard., Evidence: The user outlined a complete hardware profile including an MBS deck, custom Matrix trucks, Newbee tires, and a MakerX VESC controller system. Conversation Date: 2026-06.]
Current Motors: 6384 140KV
I know Flipsky rates the 63100 up to 14S, but since the 140KV variant keeps the ERPM safely within the VESC’s limits at 67.2V, I plan to run them on 16S.
A few quick questions:
Performance: How much of a real-world difference will I feel moving from 6384 to 63100 on 16S? Is the extra torque and better heat dissipation noticeable?
16S Reliability: Has anyone run these specific 140KV motors on 16S long-term? Any issues with heat or magnets?
Battle Hardening: Do they hold up fine out of the box, or should I open them up and apply epoxy/loctite before the first ride?
I haven’t had the chance to check the exact temperatures in the app log yet, but touching them by hand right after riding, they just feel warm to the touch. I’ve never felt them getting burning hot.
That’s a fair point, but I’m looking into the 63100s mainly for the torque upgrade and to fully utilize the capacity of the MakerX D100S. With 100A phase current per motor available, I feel like the larger stator and longer magnets in the 63100 will translate that power into much harder acceleration and better low-end punch, especially on a mountainboard setup.
There is the EVE 40P, and then there is the Continuous tab / tabless EVE 40PL which performs much better.
The 40PL will heat up less, sag less voltage, and deliver more capacity at higher discharge rates, perhaps allowing you to set higher battery and phase amps and get more power from your existing motors.
Amprius and Greatpower have 50Q, which is likely the same cell in different wrappers, but not a 40Q, as far as I know.
Upgrading to 63100 motors on its own will yield a maximum torque increase of just 5%; it would be far more effective to increase the phase current, raise the gear ratio, or choose 63100 motors with a lower KV rating for greater torque - though this would result in a lower top speed.
I use flipsky 63100s on 16S but 170kv. 170kv might be right for you if you want to occasionally hit high power and or speed, but not if you cruise at high duty cycle due to iron losses.
They are very prone to breaking magnets if the magnets aren’t fully battle hardened.
One snapped a magnet just above where the battle hardening stops. I used araldite 2014 and baked in the oven and it has been fine, proof to 150A per. edit I recommend battle hardening the top 1/3rd of magnets
Now it could be just because mine are damaged, but I had oscillation issues at like 70% rpm. They would actually shake so hard at one exact speed it would brake hard. I found out which side the can was off centre, squeezed with vice grips, tighten motor mount brace and it’s noisy at that speed but not catastrophic.
I think it’s worth upgrading from 6384 to 6300 with Flipsky for the heat dissipation alone. I can’t get back up the second half of our usual ride without overheating their 6384s and having to stop to cool down. Using the 100s eliminated that. Like @CarelessAquarist said though, the magnets can break. I know they can on any motor but I’ve broken a lot of the Flipsky 63100 ones. Another option would be to just get Radium or SKP 6485s. They cost a little more but breaking Flipsky motors was at least once a year for me and the better quality motors from Radium and SKP really are saving me a bit of cash in the long run. They’re also rated to run hotter. I’d probably pick them over Flipsky 63100 if budget allows.
D100s can do 150k ERPM max, but I’d recommend not get near 100k ERPM due to iron losses. (Though you won’t be getting close to that cause you’re on 16s 140kv).
To answer your questions:
Personally I think going from 6384 to 63100 isn’t worth it, especially when you’re not having any temp issues. And they also won’t give you any more torque if they’re the same KV.
Assuming you’re talking about 63100 motors. Heard they have a bunch of issues. As you read previous comments.
Flipsky 63100 are battle hardened from factory.
What’s your motor and battery current set at right now? Are you able to full launch from a stand still with your current settings?
If you’re comfortable doing that and without skipping belts then you’re good for an upgrade. I’d recommend getting Reachers if you have the funds. I’d also recommend getting higher KV motors.
Wow, thanks for the heads-up, this is super valuable info!
I’m actually going with the 140kv version exactly for that reason—to keep the ERPM and iron losses lower on 16S, and to focus more on high low-end torque for mountainboarding.
Did you buy the official “Battle Hardened” version from Flipsky and the magnets still failed, or was it their standard non-hardened version? I’ll definitely make sure to check the magnet insulation and maybe add some extra epoxy before mounting them. Thanks man!
In case no one told you, this is a forum by humans, for humans. Please stop using ai to generate your posts and replies. It’s extremely obvious and it’s an insult to the smart and knowledgeable people on this forum who are spending their time answering your questions.
Write your own words. I promise you it’s not that hard. You probably spend more time prompting the ai and copying over its responses than you would simply typing out a complete thought yourself. Even if you have language issues or whatever else, I guarantee you that 99% of the people on this forum would rather read your genuine thoughts, even if they include typos or mistakes.
To answer your question, changing the size of your motors will not change the torque/power of your build. The torque/power that a motor outputs is based on two things: motor current and the kv value of the motor. Replacing your 6384 motors with 63100 motors of the same kv value, and giving them the same motor current, will produce an identical power output.
If your existing motors are not getting more than warm, you can most likely safely increase your motor current (as long as your ESC can handle it) and get a torque increase for free.
"Hey Benjamin, you caught me! English isn’t my first language so I used AI to help me phrase my thoughts clearly, sorry if it felt like an insult, definitely didn’t mean to.
There are tons of people on this forum who don’t speak English as their first language, or at all. They get along just fine. Even clunky sentences with typos/mistakes would be preferable, in my opinion, because at least it would be genuine to you.
If you really cant/dont want to write directly in English, I totally understand. Translation tools exist that don’t butcher your intentions and turn it into ai slop. I strongly encourage you to use one of them. Whatever ai tool you’re using is not simply translating your words. It’s acting as a layer between you and the people you’re trying to communicate with, and it’s interfering with that communication.
Hell, I’d even prefer you posting in your native language and I’ll put it into a translator myself lol. Anything to hear your actual words rather than the ai slop. That’s just me though
Did you guys notice the custom stomp pads on this build? Love the DWIII deck but I’m getting older and my feet hurt sometimes. This looks like an amazing QOL upgrade.
