It’s hard to say because I don’t know the true specs on those batteries, nor do I know how much power the Blink S draws.
Would it be possible to wire the battery’s directly to the esc rather than to a BMS and then the esc?
Sure, but then you have to take the skateboard apart every time you want to charge it.
F that.
The BMS is for charging.
Oh. Ok. I was considering 3D printing a battery box that could un-clip. The stock compartment is really thin, so the 5s lipo’s wouldn’t fit anyway.
Then use five 2S lipos.
What’s the upside in that?
Maybe five thin lipos would fit better than two thick ones.
They still wouldn’t fit. The board use 18650’s I believe, so it is about the height of one of those. The compartment is maybe 1 and a half inches tall. I will tear in apart tomorrow and get exact dimensions.
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HRB has good batteries from what I hear, I personally used Lipos in my first build for a couple years, only got <10 miles of range but I wasn’t a very good rider back then either
You’re gonna have a hard time fitting those in the Acton enclosure tho, it’s tiny. I bet Acton used really bad cells back then, It’s probably a 10s2p pack or something like that
@b264 I just did a little more research and the boosted mini s is a pretty comparable board to mine. The boosted has a 2.5 ah battery and gets 7 miles of range. Would that mean that I could get away with a 3 ah battery and still get good range?
More likely Boosted is just exaggerating. Don’t trust numbers coming from folks profiting from a sale.
I wouldn’t get 11km (7 miles) of range from a 2500mAh battery.
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No offense, but it may be best to consider just starting fresh and building a completely new DIY or buying a better prebuilt. I looked this thing up and it seems to be a 10s1p pack and I believe 18650 at that. You’re never going to get a whole lot of range out of a 10s1p 18650 pack. It’s also a single hub so I assume pretty low performance. If you’re going to bother to go to the lengths of building a battery or having one built, making an enclosure, etc. it might be worth it to upgrade the drivetrain as well. Since it’s single hub that probably means new trucks too. At that point all you’re using from it is probably the deck.
I’m usually not one for getting a new thing when there are other options, but it honestly seems more reasonable in this case.
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If you send me the board I can customize a solution for you but customer work doesn’t come cheap.
Ah sir, you have hit on key point, cheap. Sending it to get a custom battery solution or even building a new board from scratch is not in the question. If I 3D print a new enclosure it’ll cost almost nothing, maybe $5-10. Two 5s Lipo’s would cost me maybe 75 to 100 dollars. I don’t need super good performance.
…until you accidentally mess up your new battery or some other malfunction happens.
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Yeah. I have been thinking about that.
You’re still potentially going to have issues though. Because it’s using a proprietary ESC, probably a LingYi from the looks of it, you can’t trust the ESC to cut out at the same voltage which is different for Lipo vs li-ion. That means you probably need to run a discharge BMS or you’ll risk damaging the cells by over-discharging them. That still won’t be ideal though as the board will just cut out when the battery dies. Maybe it’s low enough performance that it won’t be a big deal if it randomly cuts out. If you want to prevent that you probably need a vesc. That would add another $150 or so though. You’re just going to keep running into issues as every link in the chain that is that board is weak.
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