Here is it:
VESC: Flipsky Mini FSESC 4.20
Antispark Switch: Flipsky Anti-spark Switch Smart
BMS: FlexiBMS Lite
Battery: LiPo 6S 4Ah
BT: Metr PRO
I don’t really understand what you’re saying, are you saying you think it uses more energy with a loopkey than without one? It should not make any difference
The exact opposite.
If I keep the loop key connected all the night it will consume much more than keeping it disconnected (because of the circuit is closed).
Ah yes that’s right. The antispark switch will have some parasitic draw when not activated when compared to the circuit being fully open.
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So, the Xenith/Unity have a more “efficient” antispark switch or simply the current gap depends by the battery capacity?
Well, more efficient yes but the flipsky one is suposedly way more reliable, antispark switches have a tendency to fail. @Gamer43 designed it, he can probably tell you more about it if you’re interested. The only drawback is a small current draw at rest (which, if i remember correctly, was fixed in later revisions of the antispark, but not implemented by flipsky)
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I’m not sure what this means I’m sorry
I would imagine the Unity antispark is more efficient than the flipsky one
The flipsky one has a higher idle current draw because it’s the old gamer43 design
It sounds like they implemented my fix in the later version numbers.
The issue is they went all in on the initial design and made a huge first batch of the design with the 2.5mA draw.
The new ones should be closer to 360uA. I didn’t read the datasheet all the way through and failed to realize the charge pump draws a huge quiescent current at low input voltages.
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I would say that they DO need a loop key.
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I would agree. Installing a loop key in the initial installation will save you some heartache when the built in antispark eventually fails
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You can always choose to not unplug the key, and have the same circuit. But one day if/when that soft switch fails, you’ll be SUPER glad you did that.
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I’ve had two consecutive Unity’s blow within a few hundred metres. I’ve got the a/s circuit bypassed now and a loopkey installed. Could’ve saved myself a pretty penny if I’d installed one in the first place.
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What do you do with these 
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Batches of drv wizard jobs? lol who knows
Surely it would be more profitable to sell them at a discount to us loop key fiends 
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This please
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Are those returned units or failed initial QC?
Only 2-3 are ones that were returned. All other units are switches that failed at 58V while testing.
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What was the failure mode?