Do you know if you can do that on a unity? I looked long time ago. But not sure where to go…
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Honestly 4x 10in scooter hub motors for this build makes a ton of sense. Silent and lowest chance of a mechanical failure. You can even buy a 5th and keep it in the trailer haha. Issue is getting them to mount on esk8 trucks
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I vote for gokart tyres 
I think this only happens with uart remotes, they have different logic than ppm.
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Hub motors inside pneumatics is kind of my holy grail.
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There is no overall best 6.5Ah cell and you can start to compromise performance by only choosing a cell based on capacity. A capacity rating is set when running at about an amp or less and is pretty useless at much above that due to voltage sag lowering the effective (delivered) capacity of the cell.
You can easily get better performance at high power levels with a 5Ah cell. But the BAK 65E and Linkdata (if higher grade cells) are amazing at low to moderate power levels).
The best cells for your application depends on how much current (per cell) you will be drawing. Take a look at these numbers at that current level: https://www.patreon.com/batterymooch/posts/18650-21700-e-138053835
The cells with the highest E-Score (Energy Score, Wh of energy delivered down to 2.8V) will be the best all-around performers for you. For PEV use you’ll have to estimate your average current draw based on how you ride (high current draw accelerating versus low current cruising).
If the voltage under load at a particular point in the discharge is a priority (like drag racers needing high voltage at the start or e-flight packs needing high voltage at low charge levels for landing) then my Patreon supporters can check out the 1A/5A/10A/40A/100A Shootouts of the top 21700’s that directly compares the discharge curves of the top ten performers.
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I’ve never used a UART remote. This behavior has always happened to me on my PPM setups.
From everything I’ve seen, when one motor is able to free-spin (belt-skip, broken belt, disengaged motor gear, holding one wheel in the air, whatever) the vescs send all the current to that motor until it spins up to full speed, and send nothing (or very close to nothing) to the other motor(s) which still have load.
@jack.luis had to save me from almost rolling into traffic when this happened to me one time. One of my helical motor pinions disengaged (straight-cuts for the win), and that motor just spun up to full speed while the other motor did jack shit to slow me down.
Yall can try this to confirm. Take one of your belts off and try to accelerate. Unless I’m totally wrong about this, you won’t be going anywhere fast.
Disclaimer: I don’t know how the vesc “traction control” setting factors into this, if at all. I also don’t know how split PPM vs CANBUS affects this. All my experience is on 2wd CANBUS, as god intended.
Sorry for derailing your decidedly non-vesc thread with vesc bullshit, Al 
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Oh I had totally forgotten about that time. Yeah it bet we could write code for vesc that can detect a free spinning motor and turn it off immediately.
Because you’re right, you set the wattage limit on the bad drive to like 20W the other is suddenly way more useful (on vesc)
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Yup I believe after you saved my life we pulled off the road and set that motor to zero motor amps, which solved the problem. I’m sure a wattage limit would do the same thing.
Then I just limped home on 1wd, which really fucking sucked on trucks as wide as hypertrucks 
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Thankyou good sir!
I have had a look at that chart and the bak65e or linkdata65p are still looking like the frontrunners for me with a 19.3 and 20 escore respectively at 20a per cell.
Will keep watching and waiting in the time being… perhaps something better will come along!!
That would be pretty cool but also more fuckery than i can tolerate.
@SternWake i’ve tried those tranzite trucks/hubs, they’re wobbly as all hell.. probably just crap tires, but i’m not thrilled about the cheap trucks either. Crazy cheap drivetrain though at that price!
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Fully expected and appreciated, i’m under no illusions as to where we are and how this place operates 
I very well may end up on vesc if my other options aren’t viable for whatever reasons so the conversation is still very much relevant.
As much as i’d like to avoid it, i am aware it exists for good reason.
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Is anyone from Lorentz active around these parts?
I’ve tried reaching out on their website with no luck, hoping to buy 6 wheels rather than the 4 in their kit but they only have an option for 4 and no singles.. don’t really need 8.
Another option i was tossing up was to just use cheap hubs and tires for spares, maybe just get some 5 stars for that..
FTFY 
Could try @ChrisLips
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We’re living proof Benji!! I know what you mean tho, its a far cry from what we once were.
I do enjoy that we still have a number of very experienced and knowledgeable members here.
@ChrisLips hit me up bro, i want to buy shit!
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Id go with these if you’re willing to engineer an adapter to esk8 trucks. The specs are insane lol
Makes me wanna build a board using them
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Hell yeah, they look awesome.. not really keen on destroying a set of dualities in an attempt to make them work though
What say you @Titoxd1000? Can you see any viable way to get these to work?
I could design an adapter and you could order it from JLC or whoever. Id use the most narrow option tito sells and go from there
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Haha i just ordered the 300s.
I love the idea but i don’t wanna go experimental with this build, much rather stick with tried and true methods.
Bit boring I know, but this is gonna be a huge time and financial investment as it is, would rather just stick with a basic bitch plan
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Confirmed and ordered parts for the rolling chassis! Gonna take some time to financially recover, but I can definitely get started designing pulleys and mounts once these parts arrive!
Phantom deck/enclosure - $1279
Tito 300mm Dualities - $715
Lorentz Nail’d wheels x6 - $927
Rolling chassis total cost $2921 AUD shipped
I’m balls deep now! No turning back!
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Damn, $900 USD for Phantom deck and enclosure.