Hey guys, i have this problem in my head that im never happy with what i have. So i just got in the mail some hub motors. After tinkering with them a little i realised that as they have replaceable uretane, i might be able to make an adapter to turn the hub motor into a direct drive.
My plan is that as my sales thread hasnt got a lot of traction i will get my tb 218 hanger and strip the cast from the center rod. Then shape the hanger with a file into the right shape and 3d print an adapter that covers the motor and has the core shape i desire. Lastly i will introduce a wheel and tighten everyting (there will be spacers where needed) so there is no play.
Has someone ever tried this? Is this dumb? Is this even doable? Will my axles bend? Will the motor overheat and melt the pastic?
Lots of questions no answers… shoot your ideas to me!!
Ps. I know buying a direct drive its the best option but this is kind of a “cheap experiment” as the only thing i may fuck its the hanger. And also I DO IT FOR SCIENCE
Ps2. The hangers will still be up for sale until i decide to start this shit (If i ever do)
Do you think there is a way arround that? How do direct drives manage to not bend?
I could ask to make some custom made cnc trucks with 10 mm axles and replace the bearings on the hubs, but those are some expensive experiments that doesnt really make sense anymore
I know dude but you’re far away (shipping) and also I have already this hubs so I may try them first. Will look into other options if I don’t like hubs.
Cool, do it please
Some dudes in here did that several times and it works.
When going cheap hubs I always recommend 4WD bc of 2 reasonable points:
The motors are not that stressed out while going wild like just on dual setup.
You will get a real hill killer, not that fast though, but fast enough to destroy every hill out there when battery capacity is beautiful
Edit: You can mount the motors without printing something.
Dont know if I was reading this right, but i would not recommend plastic as a motor mount
I really want to do it but I’m scared to bend the axle and fuck the motor and the truck… I’m thinking about it tho.
Well the plastic it’s just to make the prototype, if it turned out good, I would probably look for a permanent solution with aluminium or buy a dd adapter and modify it to my needs.
And also, now thinking about it I would need some wheels to go with the direct drive which I don’t have and wheels are not exactly cheap
Also, I don’t really want to go 4wd (even though it would be really cool) bc this is going into a commuter board as for hill-shredding I already have my dual TB 6380 with soon to arrive bn 220 and geardrives.
Ah yeah ok.
Just for science. mmmhhh…bending the axle while riding is shit and I trust @hummieee on that. Otherwise I read @kook thread where he did that and itz still riding afaik Dont remeber a bending issue or something from there, but maybe itz just me stupid again
Yeah totally makes sense, John. Absolutly…Not easy now for me, too, bc was planning to do that in a “future learning spare motor part projekt”, too.
Knock Knock Neo
That is fucking scary. I think I’ve got a solution tho. It is going to be A TON of cutting and filing but this is a 10 mm axle (stepped down to 8 for the wheels) and it’s pretty cheap. But I dunno if I’m going to enjoy double kingpin trucks.
Maybe the hanger could be mounted on a single kingpin. Maybe
Make sure u don’t score the axle at all giving it a spot to form a crack. Cut it close and then twist it to snap the aluminum without injuring the axle.
How u going to transfer torque from the outside of the motor to the wheel?
i will start by using the screws outside the motor can to screw an adapter i will probably buy and modify from a normal direct drive. i will probably make a 3d printed substitute while i wait to see if it holds up.
i also plan to make a 3d printed cover for the motors to protect them from stones and debree, but at the same time that has airflow.
this are the screw holes i talk about. theyre used to secure the uretane to the hubs
Yes , It is actually not as bad as it sounds as there are 6 m4 screws in each wheel, and the thane fits pretty snugly in the can (the thane also has a metalic can) so i think being hub motors they dont need stronger bond that the friction and the screws provide
and also I have already this hubs so I may try them first. Will look into other options if I don’t like hubs.
with soon to arrive bn 220 and geardrives.
Dont remeber a bending issue or something from there, but maybe itz just me stupid again 
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