Trying to build my first esk8 for cheap.At the sametime, High quality.

[Evwan]

Boardnamics motor mounts
Boardnamics.com

[Evwan]

Also. If you’ve never built a battery and you don’t know what you’re doing, please either take the time to do your research or pay someone else to do it. I wouldn’t trust my battery with an 8 dollar BMS either.

The battery builders club

Batteries are dangerous if not treated right. Nobody want to have a fire at home or lose a board due to a wrong battery design. This thread should be a summary of clean safe battery packs as well as a place where you can come and ask questions all about how best to build your own pack. Feel free to upload pictures in progress and ask our opinion about the layout, weld quality or what ever you not sure is right done or not. @moon if I remember right you had a punch of pictures from well made p…

Read through this thread so you can get an idea of what’s required in a good esk8 battery.

[Darkstar826]

Base on Youtubers…
Pavel Garmas, Lee Wright and Just Vlad. The BMS is good enough for 10s setup. I’m only using it for charging the batteries. The reason why It’s cheap. I brought it directly from the manufacture. lol I skipped the middle man. Trust me… I been doing research for 3 months for my safety.

[frankthedragon]

What are you using for enclosures, wheels, charger, and pulleys? Wheels can get pretty expensive, as is an enclosure if you want a bottom mount.

[jaykup]

You could save a few dollars by going with a GT2B Baby Buffalo, Mad Munkey or Mini thumb remote. You can 3d print a case to shrink it down.

A loop key is cheaper and more reliable than an anti-spark switch

dickyho’s shop on eBay has some good prices on pulleys and mounts

You may want to shift some of the money to the battery. At 280wh you’d be lucky to get 10 miles out of it…

[b264]

Not seeing an enclosure listed, and seeing MBoards parts, are classic red flags that you will be running into issues later that will be likely to cost money.

@b264

If I could be of assistance, it would be to choose your items in a certain order. Don’t choose anything else until you’ve chosen your deck and enclosure. Because you need to know if it will even fit. Enclosures are much more difficult than you think, and you need to know if flexibility will be something you design for, or not. So go in a certain order, along the whole way making sure you choose things that are compatible with each other.

1. helmet
2. deck + enclosure (flex?)
3. battery (flex?)
4. ESC(s)
5. drivetrain & trucks & motor mount
6. wheels
7. motors
8. {everything else}
9. remote
10. aesthetics: grip, colors, lights

Leaving enclosures until last as an afterthought is a surefire way to end up in a less-than-ideal position.

[b264]

@jaykup

A loop key is cheaper and more reliable than an anti-spark switch

This. If your goal is cheap and good, then you absolutely should use a loopkey instead of an antispark switch.

How to make an XT90 Loop Key

Arguably, the most reliable way to control power to an ESC [pair] is to use an XT90S loopkey. [20190219_024916][20190219_024931] It may not be the prettiest or the shiniest or the most foolproof, but it probably will outlast almost any other way if done correctly, and it’s certainly the cheapest. This does have antispark characteristics if you use the “XT90S” instead of the “XT90” variant of the female connector. You definitely don’t want to use the female XT90. Essentially, you make “a ke…

[xsynatic]

Damnit.

I was reading through the parts list and was really impressed. “Damm, first build and no mboards part in sight, im impressed!” Then i reached the last line

[b264]

@Darkstar826

C6374 high efficience brushless motor 170KV for electric skateboard longboard
US $51.30

These motors are ass and won’t last too long, you can tell because they don’t have phase wires on them, this is a massive red flag. Use a Flipsky motor.

[b264]

@Darkstar826

MOOSE Longboard Skateboad Deck 10" x 39.8" Freeride Freestyle Drop Down Cruiser US $58.95

I remember seeing a few folks use these and I don’t recall any problems with them.

[b264]

@Darkstar826

Trust me… I been doing research for 3 months for my safety.

It’s hard to trust you when you have MBoards parts on the list.

But have no worries, you did good by asking

We’ve all messed up and spent tons of money so you don’t have to.

[Red_souls]

Flipskys smart enhanced 200a antispark is also a good choice if you want to have a power button to easily turn on and off the board, heard their reliable as well

[bollen]

The C6374 motors are ok performance wise, but never got the sensors to work on mine.
Flipsky or Maytech would be a better choice.

The Flipsky 200A smart enhanced AS has been very reliable on10S but nothing beats a XT90S if you’re on a budget.

[sleepless]

@b264

Not seeing an enclosure listed, and seeing MBoards parts, are classic red flags that you will be running into issues later that will be likely to cost money.

@b264

If I could be of assistance, it would be to choose your items in a certain order. Don’t choose anything else until you’ve chosen your deck and enclosure. Because you need to know if it will even fit. Enclosures are much more difficult than you think, and you need to know if flexibility will be something you design for, or not. So go in a certain order, along the whole way making sure you choose things that are compatible with each other.

1. helmet
2. deck + enclosure (flex?)
3. battery (flex?)
4. ESC(s)
5. drivetrain & trucks & motor mount
6. wheels
7. motors
8. {everything else}
9. remote
10. aesthetics: grip, colors, lights

Leaving enclosures until last as an afterthought is a surefire way to end up in a less-than-ideal position.

Repeating this because it deserves repeating

[Venom121212]

How are your 30 P26a cells going to beat the 48 P42a cells in the hurricane?

[Common_good]

A few things. If you’re building your own pack I see a few things missing from your parts list. I’m assuming you already have some of this stuff but it bears mentioning.

• Polymide tape- an important insulation tool.
• Nickle strip- unlikely you would be able to build a pack safely without this
• Shrink wrap
• High-strand silicone tinned copper wire (various gauges but you can build lots of different packs w 12 awg and 14 awg on hand)
• Soldering iron
• 60/40 solder (don’t cheap out on this one as it will make a huge difference in the difficulty of your joints)
• Rosin
• Hot glue gun

You’ll also likely have some trouble w that spot welder. Malelecteics or kWeld are solid choices but more expensive.

DIYing your own battery only makes sense financially if you plan on building multiple packs. Otherwise, the initial up-front investment kills any savings and then some. Also, Lee Wright is a solid battery builder. Pavel, not so much. Co-sign w @Evwan re checking out the battery builders thread.

If this is a one-time thing then I would just buy a used pack. I actually might be selling a 10s3p made from murata vtc6 cells that I would sell on the cheap w about 20 cycles on it. Keep your eye on the parts section of the forum too. You can save a lot of dough there. Good luck w the build.

[Darkstar826]

Those parts I dont know what to get. The enclosure is going to be 3d printed with carbon fiber reinforce. If you could help me getting something reasonable. I will get it.

[Darkstar826]

I said somewhat close to it. Lol I guess I went over my plans. I should of said… good enough for beginners.

[Darkstar826]

What is the problem with mboards trucks? The enclosure is going to be 3d printed with carbon fiber reinforce shell.

[Evwan]

the problem is mboards, but yeah.