A few things. If you’re building your own pack I see a few things missing from your parts list. I’m assuming you already have some of this stuff but it bears mentioning.
Polymide tape- an important insulation tool.
Nickle strip- unlikely you would be able to build a pack safely without this
Shrink wrap
High-strand silicone tinned copper wire (various gauges but you can build lots of different packs w 12 awg and 14 awg on hand)
Soldering iron
60/40 solder (don’t cheap out on this one as it will make a huge difference in the difficulty of your joints)
Rosin
Hot glue gun
You’ll also likely have some trouble w that spot welder. Malelecteics or kWeld are solid choices but more expensive.
DIYing your own battery only makes sense financially if you plan on building multiple packs. Otherwise, the initial up-front investment kills any savings and then some. Also, Lee Wright is a solid battery builder. Pavel, not so much. Co-sign w @Evwan re checking out the battery builders thread.
If this is a one-time thing then I would just buy a used pack. I actually might be selling a 10s3p made from murata vtc6 cells that I would sell on the cheap w about 20 cycles on it. Keep your eye on the parts section of the forum too. You can save a lot of dough there. Good luck w the build.
Those parts I dont know what to get. The enclosure is going to be 3d printed with carbon fiber reinforce. If you could help me getting something reasonable. I will get it.
If you choose a proper enclosure and actually purchase good motors and good parts, I’ll build you a battery for the cost of parts.
If you’re in the US, that is.
I’d have to see actual pictures of the parts, that you’ve actually acquired them, and what enclosure layout it is, but I’m willing to help so that you don’t end up with something unsafe for your first board.
It’d be my good deed for the holidays, and an investment into the community. At least, in hopes that the battery isn’t the factor that leads to catastrophic failure.
Best of luck with the build.
Listen to the people here, they’re smart and seasoned. And have kept me from many unintended fires.
If this is the case, then I highly recommend you make that, and make sure it’s strong enough to bash around and flex, before you begin purchasing the other components, aside from a deck and helmet. Jump on the deck. Make sure the bolt holes don’t crack. Because they will probably crack. People use fiberglass a lot for reasons. Glass fiber also doesn’t block radio like carbon fiber does and it’s a good bit more flexible.
However, this is a better option if you don’t buy an enclosure (which limits deck choice)
Last thing you want is to have a battery and try to find an enclosure that works. (Unless you lay up your own fiberglass enclosure) Do that the other way around. Tell the battery builder how big your space is.
Of course you can make the enclosure with certain common battery sizes in mind, I just wouldn’t buy that battery yet
I have all those parts you mention because my second hobby is fpv drone. Lol the only thing that’s new to me is the spot welding part. I do have a dead 18650 battery, so I could practice. It just the battery layout is something I need to practice . I’m going for 10s 3p. I want it low profile as possible.
Putting electrodes on an 18650 battery and welding some nickel to it is the easy part.
Determining the correct nickel thickness and shape, series connection wire sizes and type, isolating p groups, protecting the can near the positive terminal, designing in flex, and not damaging the cell by incorrectly welding the negative terminal is the hard part.
But we all start somewhere. Reading through the million posts in that battery building club thread would be a good start to gaining that knowledge… but it’s hard to pass up a free battery build from an experienced builder.
@TheBoardGarage can advise you on the best choice to achieve this but it will either be braided, tinned copper or several smaller gauge silicone wire, the latter of which would be superior imo. 3x 20 awg would he about right for the series connections.
I would strongly prefer multiple pieces of silicone-insulated high-strand-count copper wire (sometimes called “superworm”) over copper braid. I’d use 16AWG or 14AWG though
