These motors are ass and won’t last too long, you can tell because they don’t have phase wires on them, this is a massive red flag. Use a Flipsky motor.
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I remember seeing a few folks use these and I don’t recall any problems with them. 
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It’s hard to trust you when you have MBoards parts on the list.
But have no worries, you did good by asking 
We’ve all messed up and spent tons of money so you don’t have to.
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Flipskys smart enhanced 200a antispark is also a good choice if you want to have a power button to easily turn on and off the board, heard their reliable as well
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The C6374 motors are ok performance wise, but never got the sensors to work on mine.
Flipsky or Maytech would be a better choice.
The Flipsky 200A smart enhanced AS has been very reliable on10S but nothing beats a XT90S if you’re on a budget.
Repeating this because it deserves repeating
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How are your 30 P26a cells going to beat the 48 P42a cells in the hurricane?
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A few things. If you’re building your own pack I see a few things missing from your parts list. I’m assuming you already have some of this stuff but it bears mentioning.
- Polymide tape- an important insulation tool.
- Nickle strip- unlikely you would be able to build a pack safely without this
- Shrink wrap
- High-strand silicone tinned copper wire (various gauges but you can build lots of different packs w 12 awg and 14 awg on hand)
- Soldering iron
- 60/40 solder (don’t cheap out on this one as it will make a huge difference in the difficulty of your joints)
- Rosin
- Hot glue gun
You’ll also likely have some trouble w that spot welder. Malelecteics or kWeld are solid choices but more expensive.
DIYing your own battery only makes sense financially if you plan on building multiple packs. Otherwise, the initial up-front investment kills any savings and then some. Also, Lee Wright is a solid battery builder. Pavel, not so much. Co-sign w @Evwan re checking out the battery builders thread.
If this is a one-time thing then I would just buy a used pack. I actually might be selling a 10s3p made from murata vtc6 cells that I would sell on the cheap w about 20 cycles on it. Keep your eye on the parts section of the forum too. You can save a lot of dough there. Good luck w the build.
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Those parts I dont know what to get. The enclosure is going to be 3d printed with carbon fiber reinforce. If you could help me getting something reasonable. I will get it.
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I said somewhat close to it. Lol I guess I went over my plans. I should of said… good enough for beginners.
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What is the problem with mboards trucks? The enclosure is going to be 3d printed with carbon fiber reinforce shell.
the problem is mboards, but yeah.
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A few more ways to keep the costs down -
Buy cells from battery hookup or battery clearing house. Battery cells makes a huge difference in both performance and range
Single 6374/6384/63100 motor (one esc, pulley, mount, belt, etc)
Dual 5065 or 6355 motors
Sale threads on the forum like this one
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that would interfere with RF signal, maybe just GF instead?
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If you choose a proper enclosure and actually purchase good motors and good parts, I’ll build you a battery for the cost of parts.
If you’re in the US, that is.
I’d have to see actual pictures of the parts, that you’ve actually acquired them, and what enclosure layout it is, but I’m willing to help so that you don’t end up with something unsafe for your first board.
It’d be my good deed for the holidays, and an investment into the community. At least, in hopes that the battery isn’t the factor that leads to catastrophic failure.
Best of luck with the build.
Listen to the people here, they’re smart and seasoned. And have kept me from many unintended fires.
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If this is the case, then I highly recommend you make that, and make sure it’s strong enough to bash around and flex, before you begin purchasing the other components, aside from a deck and helmet. Jump on the deck. Make sure the bolt holes don’t crack. Because they will probably crack. People use fiberglass a lot for reasons. Glass fiber also doesn’t block radio like carbon fiber does and it’s a good bit more flexible.
However, this is a better option if you don’t buy an enclosure (which limits deck choice)
Last thing you want is to have a battery and try to find an enclosure that works. (Unless you lay up your own fiberglass enclosure) Do that the other way around. Tell the battery builder how big your space is.
Of course you can make the enclosure with certain common battery sizes in mind, I just wouldn’t buy that battery yet
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I have all those parts you mention because my second hobby is fpv drone. Lol the only thing that’s new to me is the spot welding part. I do have a dead 18650 battery, so I could practice. It just the battery layout is something I need to practice . I’m going for 10s 3p. I want it low profile as possible.
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What country are you in?
Usa
Ok, i Will try fiberglass. You are right about the rc part. Carbon does block signal. I’m going to learn from the post you provided.
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