so you would think this, I’m literally in the process of making some @torqueboards caliber II 50xx mounts fit - so far I’ve filed off @1-2mm of hanger and they fit upside down but they do fit - I’ll post some pics soon - I’ve been shocked at how easy this has been , was putting it off for ages
I have a couple of unique features I’m hoping work out started to think this board has more potential to hospitalize me than anything I’ve built so far
Yes, for me uniqueness is why I DIY. I am not here to mod evolves, improve a prebuilt or build with a common deck. I need something to be special. That is the whole fun of it
the only other besides sz tkp’s i could find on a quick search are dont trip bhangers
neither the paris street versions nor tracker trucks seem to have longer ones… but atleast for indys i know that this is solved quickly with some hammering
Because there is still not a ‘‘Mark As Solution’’ option on this forum…
(@BillGordon i want to know who is responable jk )
… this post will be the << Solutions Post >>
Best Size Trucks For Small Boards
So <180 seems to be the best. I think 150/137 would be great for under 20mp/h if you have enough height to avoid wheel bite and you are using hub motors. If using Belt drive then you need either a longer axle or longer hanger depending on what system you use.
TKP for any board that does not go above 30km/h - 18mp/h
RKP for anything that will go faster than that
Here is a great quote from @mmaner on the other forum
‘’ I rode RKP forever because everyone, and I mean everyone, said they were better. I was broke so I didn’t wanna spend money on something that wouldn’t perform.**
I eventually bought a pair of Surf Rodz TKPs from @psychotiller because they looked so damned cool and his mounts had the stability that was lacking in others. I can’t go back now. I’m not saying all RKPs are better than TKPs, but the SR TKPs are better than any other truck I’ve ridden…under 20mph .**
I would further add, when NOT at speed TKP is more comfortable as the leans and carves are more fluid (linear) than RKP…which is why I like them. ‘’
Here is another from @RipTideSports also from the other forum
‘’ I also love using TKP trucks for various applications, especially when I have a short board and I want a long true wheelbase (measured from axle to axle). Since we make bushings, we made the same shapes available for TKPs that we have for RKPs. We call them our “StreetSeries and they come in 2 heights. ShortStreet is .4” tall and Street is .5" tall. ShortStreet height include a Cone and Barrel where Street height includes a Cone, Barrel, FatCone and Chubby. TKP’s can be wedged and dewedged just like RKPs with similar benefits but I normally will only dewedge the rear since most TKP’s turn a lot already so I am just looking to deaden the rear a bit for higher speed stability. The differentiating factor between TKPs and RKPs is the pivot axis is not perpendicular to the kingpin on TKPs. For more information, have a look at: http://www.riptidesports.com/streetseries-bushings/
Please correct me, Mike, Brad, if your minds have changed
Right i did not want to quote this but here is a good explanation from dickoz, i can’t reword in a better way tbh so here it is
Tkp flaps, rkp wobbles.
Over powering a flap is hard unless your a pumper at heart.
Over powering a wobble can be done with a carve just lean.
For a person with out ankle control, tkp at speed is alot more violent and harder to tame.
Both can be stable at speed, but one is harder to over powering when it starts controlling you vs you controlling it. Rkp is easier to overcome. So it is more “stable” or it’s ability to be controlled in a stable manner is easier.