I think being able to travel with your board a really cool option to have but all the flight safe boards/ batteries out there have very little range/ power. So i was thinking about how i might be able to build a board with a lot/ decent amount of power and range. so i had the idea of spliting a 12s pack into 6 2s packs under 100 whr that can be take out individually. I have a pretty shitty drawing of the idea bellow. i wonder what u guys thoughts on this is. haven’t decided on anything else yet. was thinking 12s5p molicel 26a
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Will you be using NESE or some other modular cell holders? If you have the space, I recommend it; will look much more professional and safe when going through 
security. Looks like NESE stops at 2s4P though 
I’m personally doing 2s3p using p42a cells, although 2s5p with p26a would have more range for sure.
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so you’ve done this already? do you have a build thread? (i couldn’t find any).
i’m still unsure of what deck to use so suggestions would be nice.
Extract cells, grpup them to 99wh packs, rebuild at destination.
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It’s the last build on my todo list unfortunately; no point in a travel safe build until you can actually travel 
Have most of the parts for it tho
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Yea that trampa kit is only 800lbs. Sounds like a cheap way out. Only 350lbs if you have your cells already…or you could make your p packs up then do your series connections at your destination with a soldering iron
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Just add an XT60 or XT90 between the P groups or every second P group and add some extra connectors for the balance wires. Would be easy to take it apart. LHB has done this once, it’s deep in his sales thread somewhere iirc.
Good option if you want to top mount the battery
i intend on mounting my battery in an enclosure underneath the deck. was thinking about using fiberglass, is the hobbyking stuff any good?
what connectors do you suggest for the ballance wires. (they only need to be 2 pins wide but non reversible)
2 pin JST SYP connectors would be perfect for balance connections I think. One thing to keep in mind, you have to always be sure that you are plugging the balance connectors in in the corresponding order of the P groups, otherwise you will probably burn your BMS.
P groups are the twelve 5P groups that will be connected together with the series connections, and the XT60 or 90 should be on the series connections where you want to be able to separate the pack.
Hobbyking is good btw, I bought my heatshrinks, wires and connectors from them.
would it matter in what order i plug in the sub packs and their ballance wires? i know the ballance wires need to be connected to the right p group don’t worry about that.
It doesn’t matter.
Indeed. 10S4P modular pack:
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thank you for the helpfull picture. are those xt 30’s for the ballance leads. i had been contemplating using those too
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yes those are XT30s. i chose them because they’re snug and not easy to reverse without a lot of effort. The real trick is in the wiring harness. I made it so that its stiff and has short leads, you can’t plug any of the balance leads into the wrong pack accidentally, and it really doesn’t matter what order you place the packs in because the connectors are keyed. For example if you take them out you can put any of them in any of the slots, the wiring harness won’t let you easily get anything out of sequence, if at all.
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Do you have a pic of the wiring diagram? Does each balance connector have a + & - ?
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they go to the positives of their respective cell groups. five 2P groups, so round side would go to 1 and flat side would go to 2, etc etc for each 2p pack. I didn’t draw it.