Makes also good flat spots!
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Thats why you keep the wheels spinning 
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That moment when you are still used to huge grip and they are suddenly broken in and the ass end of your board tries to overtake the front. Happened to me on a toeside lean and I soiled myself.
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These things take forever to fully break in but when they do they are a very predictable wheel.
They come back easy from a slide which is commendable considering the size and grip. No hint of a high side. Nothing rag dolls you quite like a high side.
I lost the back end accidentally heelside on a known corner that suddenly had gravel all over it and the board came back sweet once the grip was restored. Didnāt stop dead and throw me into orbit but just slid back smoothly and came back in line. Still loving these big old beauties.
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The kegel core is better though. Deeper 'thane (smaller core), stronger and round holes are much easier to DIY than whatever shape this is
Because drill bits and bolts are both round
And deeper 'thane is better
And less void means stronger core
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You can have thinner thane with better rebound if fourmla is right making a lighter wheel with better performance.
Yeah the issue is that i already have Abec pulleys.
Not sure in general about the 110mm. I know that you praise them. Iām coming from 3 years of Hub motor riding and the last few months 200mm pneumatics.
Plan would be to use a single 6374 sk3 190kv (because thats what i have laying around) with a 10s4p 30q pack + a 12s2p lipo 12Ah as backup. I plan on running it on foc (Esk8 is illegal here) I also have to find a FOC compatible vesc.
Saving a few grams of wheel weight for a performance sacrifice may be worth it on downhill boards ---- but in the world of electric where people are putting 60 cells on a board that weighs 25lbs (11.3kg) itās not worth it.
If you did find a better formula, youād still want it as deep as possible to be even better. No sense in trimming a couple grams off the wheel on an 11kg board and sacrificing some performance.
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New tires/thane have mould release agent on, you have to carefully āscrubā it off with careful riding for the first few miles, most people are familiar with this from cars/bikes.
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About a year and a half later, 6 months after the production wheels rolled out of the factory, these wheels are still kicking my ass.
I havenāt had any chunking at all on the production formula wheels. Not a single one, out of 24 wheels (6 sets).
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Working on testing a 74A version see if they provide more grip and are a bit softer.
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is it fair to assume you average about (10) miles a day?
Thatās probably fair, yes. Some skates see a lot more street than others, though.
Do you perform āsuper glueā maintenance on your urethane? i recently filled in some gaps on my TB110 caused by some gnarly road debris - to be clear this was shards of metal and lava rock that have shredded by bike tires in the past.
off topic rant
it always amazes me the things i find in my skate wheels and bike tires. sometimes i think the city pays people to put weird stuff on the road as a case study for the university. āwhat if we put 6 inch fish hooks connected to lollipops on the side of the road; do you think that would encourage these people to get cars and buy gas to pay the taxes for our roads that were originally designed for foot traffic but have been modified for cars?ā
/end rant
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I have before on ABEC11 wheels, but I havenāt yet on TB110. I have pulled a few pieces of broken glass out of them with hemostats, but thatās it.
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thanks for the quick reply. i was probably being overly cautious about the hole, i just couldnāt stomach leaving that fish hook in thereā¦or maybe it was a skater hook and i got luckyā¦dun, dun, dun! 
I mean other folks strongly recommend the cyanoacrylate treatment. I just usually donāt do it because I donāt spend time on maintenance until something breaks usually.
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I ride garbage paths, and Iāve had no issues with slicing or chunking with the 110s. Iām kind of amazed, given that my ABECs faltered under the same exact conditions.
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Same here 
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