Ah gotcha neat - you should also double check if the gigantic new hobbywing that Moe is using will fit there
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I betcha I can make it work.
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There is always the possibility of doing something like the hobby wing with RC lipos on another build. The Tomiboi race team will need a few 
I really would like to feature Artem’s toys on this one.
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This might be too ambitious…
Could the enclosure curve up the back of the deck? Looks like there is extra space there. Also, could the enclosure go farther forward? Another idea would be to add a hump in the middle of the deck. That could allow so some extra enclosure space too.
Seriously, is there a reason why 14S is not very popular? To me it seems like the next logical step from 12s.
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My first thought was to put these bindings directly on the spine…
…since that plus a battery-in-a-backpack might make that setup light enough for me to actually try it.
But I’m guessing that the spine diameter was chosen with the assumption that a deck would add significant strength to the whole package. So while riding it without the deck would probably provide the torsional flex you want, and the light weight that I want… it might just buckle in the center.
But on the other hand, we might be able to talk Moe into using something else spine. A vertical plate would give you torsional flex but still be strong vertically. Might even be able to bow it sideways in tight corners. 
I think I want a box, maybe an inch tall and a half-inch wide…
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12s generally makes sense as a battery layout with batteries in a “U” shape configurations, efficiently using space. Most/many decks wouldn’t easily fit two more p-groups in that U configuation.
18s allows you to use space with similar efficiency and layout the p-groups in a “N” configuration, or a “U, U, U” configuration like lacroix does.
Mostly though, every reason someone would go 14s also supports going to 18s, so why would you settle for 14s.
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I made a mold… and a mess. The deck is pressing now. I’m really interested to see how the nose of the deck works out.
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Yewwwwwww
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This deck has been a lot of fun to design. Something totally different.
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I’ve been sizing things up and I think I can do a 21700 double-stack. It would probably need to be staggered and there wouldn’t be much room for padding, but it looks like it could be done.
Previously, I thought I’d only be able to do 18s4p, but now I think 18s6p could be done. I’ll post some pics to back up these claims later.
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Might be worth to do a double 18650 with some tronics for allllllll the amps. Or potentially a 4wd?? I think 4 will be the future.
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I’m going to do another build with big, pneumatic tires for road racing. I’m really considering 4wd for that one. I’m also eyeing Tronic ESCs for it.
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I hadn’t mentioned this yet, but I’m making a custom 25mm wide belt-drive for this thing. I might ultimately go with the steel, open gears, but I can do this, so I’m gonna.
I ordered some blank HTD-5M pulleys. 5.14 ratio using a 14 tooth motor pully and a 72 tooth wheel pully. The 72 tooth pully is 115mm. This should give me good clearance with the 150mm SRB wheels. Especially for a track board. They’re ali pully so I can mill on them with my CNC machine. When they arrive I’ll figure out how best to fit them to the wheels.
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Some good ol’ fashioned red neck engineering. I like it.
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I really wanted to try out something other than open gears.
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I’m so sad I missed so much conversation here!!! 14s is great too in my opinion… bottom line the only thing that really matters here is gearing/motor KV and AMPS!
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I’ll have to look at what can be done with a 14s pack. Honestly, when it’s time for the battery, I might send the race-board out to you so that you can size it up.
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Tomorrow, I’ll have some pics of the deck part of this project.
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