I’ve tried a few different types. EZ-lok, generic, hardwood, softwood flanged, softwood no-flange. I thought there would be a quality difference between EZ-lok and generic, but I’ve not found this to be the case. The branded stuff is equally crappy
The hardwood ones with the thin outer threads, need the holes to be perfect. Otherwise bulging wood, cracking or stripped inserts. Skateboard plys are hard! The softwood ones are a lot more forgiving. The no-flange ones sit flush to the deck, but they can be hard to find in 10mm or shorter. Often because of the concave of the deck, 10mm sounds okay but will sit proud. I’ve taken to grinding them down a bit on a belt grinder. I need epoxy with the softwood ones.
I’ve tried M4, M5 and M6 (trying to stay metric for inserts). I like them all! M6 is all nice and burly and less likely to cross thread, and less worried about cracking the enclosure, but need huge holes in the deck. I think I have a slight preference for M4.
mcmaster is a good place to order EZ-lok. Not cheap, not terribly overpriced.
I have a terrible time with losing screws! Tried loctite (need to reapply every 2-3 cycles), vibra-tite (need to reapply every 5-10 cycles maybe), gasket/washer. Now I’m using a micro torque screwdriver and writing down the settings trying to find the “just right” pressure. I don’t really want to crank these down.
I haven’t tried stainless steel, nor the non-EZ-lok style. Really hate how brittle/soft the zinc and the brass ones are.
Oh I’ve also tried stainless steel T-nuts, 10-32 like our skate hardware. The stainless steel ones are so soft, they deform badly before the prongs seat, and the bending affects the threads. I have to coax them with a hammer while screwing them tight. I’d call this one a fail.
Hm next board I might try running a tap into the wood
Can just use metal thread taps with the hex shanks with a cordless drill. If the screw is big enough the threads are pretty strong and durable.