Remove the insert, drill the hole a bit bigger to get rid of any glue or gunk, scratch the inner walls with rough sandpaper etc, and JB weld it with a new insert.
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I’m using M6 so this is basically impossible with fingers, would a Dremel sanding bit work?
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Roll the sandpaper up
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Have we explored the possibility of just cutting a machine thread into wood? This video suggests that this would be superior in both strength and durability. In hardwood that is, idk if this translates well to plywood.
The video:
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I have tapped oak, poplar, mahogany, teak, and some plywood too for machine threads a lot, but will not for eskate application.
A few tricks for stronger machine threads in wood, are to drill a hole slightly smaller than one would for tapping metal, and do not run the tap all the way in. Cut a diagonal slot in the screw, and let the screw itself finish cutting the threads to full depth.
Then remove screw, vaccum/blow out dust, clean and wax the threads of a non slotted machine screw, with car wax, and make the threads nice and slippery, dig fingernails through paper towel in between threads, and run screw gun in and out with screwgun till threads feel buttery smooth.
Drip superglue down one side of the tapped wooden hole, hand thread start the screw but then drive the screw into it with a screw gun with proper stop collar depth, and back it out, don’t stop or go slow. The screw hydraulically pushes the superglue deep into the wood grain.
Obviously, don’t let superglue dry with screw in place, but you will be amazed how much superglue the hole can drink in and how far away it can bubble out through the wood grain.
Rubbing superglue into exposed endgrain with a gloved finger works amazing to seal and strengthen and beautify endgrain
That said, while I have had this work great in non eskate applications, I will not trust it for enclosure retaining duty.
I will drill and install zinc plated steel inserts into my deck in the near future.
I will likely test both superglue and surfboard laminating epoxy on some scraps to fix the inserts in place and seal and strengthen the wood. A bit different design of insert than I have used before, so practice will be required.
Will likely roughen the insert exterior, and wipe with alcohol too, to ensure bond strength, as they feel a bit oily.
One trick about drilling through carbon fiber or fiberglass that is laminated atop wood, run the drill backwards until the bit’s tip is past the glass, and into the wood, then slowly go forward being sure not to change the angle, and drill to depth.
This is actually a good trick drilling into a bare wood pilot hole, when one wants to insure they do not lift any of the wood grain adjacent to the hole.
Or use a dremel, with pointy carbide burr, to prevent the drill bit from causing delamination adjacent to screw hole.
Running a Qtip with car wax into the inner threaded portion of an insert, can make epoxy or super glue much easier to remove from inserts inner threads, should they get inside, and also can help prevent stainless steel fasteners from galling, and getting stuck and tools from being launched into low earth orbit propelled by vile curses.
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Good tips. Shame I didn’t read this 30mins ago 
I have to recommend against the cast zinc inserts i linked above.
The threads are dull, the mold was not well joined.
The two on the right are how they came.
The two on left are after I spent way too much time exercising my OCD disorder with a dremel and diamond cut off wheel.
I’ve used six different styles of inserts. M3/4/5 including knife edge. By far the best inserts I’ve used are the ones used by Lacroix on the nazare decks. They take up some real estate but are a dream to install and are not going to pull though.
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Do you know where to buy inserts like these?
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Flux motion sells them separate. I used their picture to reverse image the Alibaba listing.
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Share the link, friend!
These look good
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