Im not proving u wrong, i think its awesome you do it! Just that going 15 km/h is not going to tickle ur balls much, especially since you can push as fast.
I just love both things, i push most of the times to get around, i dont have a bike and electric riding is illegal here (ofc also a big reason) and use my electric board for longer rides whether its needed or for enjoyment.
I replicated the profile of most adjustable aluminum plates. With a crossbar and proper mounting, the mounting plates should only really see the rotational forces being applied when accelerating or braking. You don’t need a 15mm thick hunk of plastic
But again, it’s not the same as aluminum and it would be silly for us to call it the same. It works. But long term it creates concerns
While designing a hot-swap battery design, I’ve realized that making a convinient connector (that capable of reliable connection while just sliding a new battery into the deck) for ballance wires is not that easy to accomplish. And making/buying a bms for each battery is exactly opposite of the project’s target lol. So I thought, why not only balance charge it through external connector, and discharge it through vesc, that would monitor the voltage, without any bms at all? Sound like another weight reduction method IMO
Sounds like it could also take away from the “convenience” of having a 10 pound commuter in the first place though.
IMHO part of the usefulness of a commuter is not only lightweight and easy to carry, but also fast to arrive and depart from destinations, which usually means plug in one small wire and done.
But your results may vary
Makes sense, man
I still need to think it over
I think that’s a reasonable goal. I would look at cannon plugs as they can have upwards of 10 pins.
Update on the build (yeah, It will be sl0w)
Took the Vesc apart, in order to integrate it into the main PCB, and thus remove excessive weight of the wires and connectors:
Measured the weight of the wheel pulley and it’s hardware:
In total, that is not much, but these little reductions will cost a lot later.
Also, I’ve cleaned the trucks and will definitely repaint ‘em. Thought about anodizing them, but that’s too hard, considering that I still not finished my workshop, and work in the room. Definitely will try this on another build.
I wouldn’t do that, you want at least 3 points of contact to prevent rocking of the pulley which creates a lot of extra wear on the core, I know the head of the bolts technically count as a 2D contact surface but its so much less strength than having 3 bolts in a triangle, you’re gonna survive the extra 10g. I would definitely print a pulley though, you’ll save far more weight that way
Will petg work well?
I am not familiar with 3D printing filament properties, I know that high infill PLA works
I think one of our resident printed wheel experts @mishrasubhransu may be able to provide more information
You’re starting to shave wait on parts that are already minimalist for the forces that they encounter
The biggest weight savings you can make will be in the deck and the wheels- diameter specifically. Next is the battery and that will be entirely dependent upon range goals
Should mention that this is true only for the pulley.
Vesc is definitely not, bc i don’t know any way to fit everything nicely on a really short deck with kicktail and direct mount. And why deck should be small? Because, as you mentioned, it will save weight significantly, bc it should weight arround 1kg with enclosure. Makes sense, isn’t it?
Edit: and you will see, integration will be really sexy, I promise.
If you want the deck and enclosure to be lighter then the best option is get a thick and stuff deck then route deep grooves the full length of the board (stay away from the very edge or it will look weird, and stay away from the spot the truck holes are but between them is okay) until the stiffness begins to go away, then use a thin plastic enclosure like 3mm ABS sheet and heat mold it to shape
You can save weight on the battery by using folded nickel connections and embedding the lines of cells in the pockets of the deck
paint has mass, adds to weight
I would prefer a metal pulley with a hundred holes drilled in it over a 3D printed one
Well, initial paint layer is really T H I C K, but still does not look beautiful from any angle, so I think I will save the weight during repainting instead of increasing it.
So, I think that a compromise would be an aluminum pulley with 3 bolts & 3 holes enlarged. Result is the same, longevity is higher.
Edit: calculated curvature of the bolts on the max motor torque, not taking into account friction forces with 2, 3 & 6 of them.
2.56 cm, 3.84 cm and 7.69 cm correspondingly.
Seems too much, but in reality friction of the disk and pulley with the wheel is way higher than curving forces, especially if pulley is mounted as tight as possible. So, bolt’s strain is enough, even at 2 bolts.
What makes worries is the ring, that holds everything in place. 2-bolt mounting will bend it really hard over the axis between them, so friction that revolute the wheel will take place only near their heads. That is why 3 bolts is the way to go. But more - is exactly optional, not essential
You could use a 1mm wide belt to save weight 
But yeah, I would just scrape all paint / anodization off the trucks to make them raw. Will look decent and be slightly lighter.
Paracord drive 
just skip the belt altogether and use a friction drive
