121c Aileron + a single loaded unlimited hub on some lightweight skate trucks + a 10S1P P42A pack w/ a daly bms running 25A batt / 40A motor through a single superfoc6.8.
Like @b264 said, 16AWG, and as little of it as possible.
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arcboards had a single straight cut gear drive and 5095 combo that would work. The aileron deck brought it to mind, they used them for a minute.
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I’m playing around with those, had the same idea, but one of them is completely useless.
Dual Loaded hubs are nice as fuck on the other hand 
Their thane sleeves are much better than full size china-thane wheels.
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For reference, this is what a 13 pound commuter looks like
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Actually, this 13-pound one has 10s2p 25r inside (since @KaramQ mentioned it’s a meepo battery).
Actually, I ve checked the weight, p42a & 40t 10s1p weights roughly around the same as 2x 5s lipos. So in this case they do not make much sense. However, I’ve been playing with lipos for so long, that never wanna deal with them again. So p42a/40t is my choice. Fck the airplanes!
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Thanks for advice
And yeah, you are right - 10 pounds is quite ambitious
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I feel like a thin flexible carbon fiber deck is what would be best. Then for shedding all weight possible maybe an ultralight mount welded to the truck. hollow wheels? lol
Then a 6+Ah lipo pack with charge and ride.
Speaking of mount - it is going to be a quite thin motor plate with single idler tensioner position adjustment. Plate is going to be fixed to the truck ring, which sits on the truck. Something around 150g, I suppose. Not that much.
Speaking of battery - I don’t have much effort into using lipos after 3 years, due to they bulkiness, and lower energy density wh/cm^3 & wh/g, more importantly, compared to cells
Currently I’m thinking of 4s1p+6s1p or 2x5s1p of 40t, whatever fits to be connected better.
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With that battery its just as fun to push 
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If I could “unlike” a post, it’d be that one 
I love skating but #fuckpushing
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Actually, if this thing would be made for fun and not for holding it in one hand for half an hour in the underground at the peak hour, config would be absolutely different 
Also, it is designed for 10% absolute max grade hills with the top speed around 27 km/h. I mean, it is definitely geared for torque, not for speed. That is why 30A battery is not good, but still acceptable. Prove me I’m wrong, if I am, mr @b264
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I think folks severely underestimate how ridable and powerful 25A battery max is (on a single drive).
Is it gonna win a race? Nope, no chance
Is it the most powerful esk8? Fuck no
Is it the fastest esk8? Definitely not
Will it get up hills? Yep, all the way to the top
Will it get up steep hills? Yep, all the way to the top
How ridable is it? Very
Do you still need a helmet? Oh yes, very very much yes
How adequate is it, compared to weight? It’s more “awesome! per kilogram” than a huge heavy dual drive at 100A per side imho. “per kilogram” is an important part of that metric. It’s less lightning, but much more lightning per kilogram.
I’m speaking from a 10S or 12S li-ion or 12S or 14S LiFePO4 perspective, 25A is still a lot of watts, somewhere around 1000W-ish.
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Your 13 lbs is almost all wheel and deck! Sweet build tho. Loves me a commuter. It’s all I have at the moment.
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JayKay Etrucks are 2kg (4.4lbs) each and that is cells, ESC, and hub motors. It’s wildly expensive for the performance, but it is the best weight optimized build I have come across.
Either use one E-truck and one normal truck or gloriously go dual E-truck.
If you can find a super lightweight deck You could sneak that just under 10lbs.
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LoL that’s @KaramQ’s kick-ass build, I linked it here for comparison purposes so we can see what a 13lb board looks like
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The JayKay boards on sale, e.g. https://www.jaykay-sport.de/shop/elektro-longboard-biff/, are 4WD?
Edit: And battery is integrated in trucks/axle?
Yep. It’s massively power limited by the battery, so don’t expect ludicrous amounts of power out of it just because they are 4wd.
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Still pretty awesome concerning light weight and clandestine riding …
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I designed, modified, and tested ABS motor mounts for nearly 3 months and put dozens of miles on them. For the most part, you can get away with them on a low to mid performance build. However crossbars are absolutely essential to 3-D or plastic plates. In reality, they work to improve rigidity for every type OG setup.
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