I see wheelbite in your future
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Glad to hear! I would put some loctite on the axle extensions, just a heads up. I’ve had one come loose, luckily i noticed before it came off lol.
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Future? I see it in his present. 
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Did you have to get two sets so you can have four “front” sleeves?
No, only got one set, only needed them for the front. I’m doing something more cursed in the rear
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@Tony_Stark , I think there’s a point of keeping an eye on these tapped M4 holes 
I for example noticed some of the M4 tap-holes with a tolerance/fitting difference. Some were/felt loose like the screw had more/ too much space. They were fine when tightening up but it was really noticable to the point that i think when you change/take off the pulley somewhat more often that the threads may wear out / or even strip when not being carefull… 
Just a constructively/positively meant “heads up” on this. Love these wheels and might be wanting to order seconds in future 
Another issue that I ran into last night putting bearings into the wheels hubs;
The distances between the bolt heads securing the pulley(s) was like 27.95mm, so I had to take out all the bolts in order to slide in the 28mm OD bearings.
Totally minor and work-around-able, but annoying. Could definitely just be the bolts that I used had slightly larger heads though.
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nope you’re right on that, the heads are in the way. And i think there are no smaller/narrower heads available either …
Adding my experience for feedback as well.
Bolts to secure pulleys were too long. Replaced them with shorter ones.
28x12 bearings were really hard to install. Had to use an arbor press with a lot of elbow grease and ended up scuffing up the inside of the hub. I hear my bearing spacers click on a wheel or two, so I probably didn’t get the bearing fully seated. Dreading the day I’ll have to remove bearings.
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mine went in quite easy… when working on my trucks, tilting them over etcetera, the bearings would even come fall out pretty often
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Yup, same. I don’t have a fancy arbor press so I used some less fancy percussive maintenance
Same
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just use the truck/axle/nut to “screw” them in ?? This brought succes with me in the past…
But yeah like i said ; my Radium wheels had plenty of room for the bearings
This was my first thought. However, when I tried it was taking an incredible amount of force and I was worried about damaging the threads.
Easier/less risky to give it a few hammer whacks.
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Sloppy machinery / China / tolerances are off (?) Wild guess.
You guys having bearings that almost don’t go in, mine falling out by gravity alone…
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Time to break out “The Persuader”
Right so it would seem the machining & QC was not the best on this batch and I apologize for that. Prototypes were good, the random wheels we picked from this batch were good. We’ll improve this for future batches, but right now here is what I suggest:
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If your bearing seat is too tight, a fair bit of hand sanding or a few quick spins around the seat with a dremel w drum sander is an effective solution. We had to do this for some wheels in the past.
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If your bearing seat is too loose, its a good idea to add some medium strength Loctite to the bearing seat and allow it to cure after putting in the bearing. The idea is to fill any gap to prevent bearing movement so you don’t get clicking and seat wear over time.
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If you’ve already installed bearings with elbow grease, to remove them in future you can try heating the hubs first (but not past water boiling point) as this will expand the aluminium at a higher rate than the steel bearing. Some penetrating lubricant around the seat may also help.
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If your wheel spacer is rattling due to bearings not seated to the correct depth, adding some thick grease around and in the spacer can quiet it down. It can also be the bearings themselves rattling if you’re using our NSK due to the low friction seals and thinner high speed grease.
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If the wheel pulley bolts don’t tighten down fully, then if you happen to have an M4 x 0.7 metric tap you can tap the holes through as they are meant to be. Otherwise you can use shorter screws, but if you need to go below 12mm length screws (with the spring washers) and you don’t have success trying the front wheels too, then I’d suggest requesting replacements.
It is surprisingly difficult to get reliably snug bearing fitment in aluminium hubs. I’ve seen other brands use o rings inside the bearing seat which is a bandaid solution imo.
If you need replacement wheels we’ll do that under warranty of course, but I suggest trying the tips above first as shipping is not covered.
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Fantastic response, thanks. I’ll implement these as needed and let ya’ll know if I have any further issues.
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If i might add, it seems like the bearing seat for the backside has two tolerances.
Theres the intended bearing seat clearance, deeper down the bore, and then a sloppier region closer to the surface which has been bored out oversize. I would argue just holding the one nominal hole diameter through to the seat depth would make it easier to install bearings.
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No way. Is that the build i think it is?
This is going to be a hilarious abomination.
And a blast.
Admittedly it made the bearing harder to put in straight than I intended, however the risk of having the whole bore at the same diameter if the fit is very tight is that some aluminium might build up in front of the bearing on its way down and cause it to not seat to the correct depth.
Screw it, the wheels can all come with pressed in chinese bearings like many other aluminium wheels and you can just replace the whole thing when the bearings go😂
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