At least make it not as… boxy. More flowy. 
Board looks sick, now I wanna press some decks too… 
I think KAMi JUINs did it first, although with rubber sidewalls.
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Haha i remembered last night that it was actually donated to me from a friend who stole it from work 
but it still came from a construction site. Was meant to be a bunch of splashbacks but they were all the wrong size. I think i’ve got about 5 panels left and all the bits are roughly around 1200 x 500. Will be a sad day when it’s all gone.
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How feasible would it be to make 3d printed enclosures for a wide variety of decks?
I like modular designs. Repeating segments that could be made as long as necessary. A flexible version and a rigid version.
Also I could see a molded enclosure with an adapter that is 3d printed to make it compatible wih underside of each deck.
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I feel like the problem with this is all the road debris we have all the unaccounted stuff like bumps. Unless your rocking a tall build
Totally, but i’ve spent way too much time and money trying to make segmented enclosures with fibreglass and haven’t landed on a method i’m happy with, so i’ve given up on it.
The awesome thing about the mold design is that it can very much be modular. I’ve designed it so that i can easily change the tip angles, the concave, and the central section of the deck so that I can tweak the performance of the deck if necessary.
Totally feasible to use this method for various decks as long asa good CAD model of the underside of the deck can be achieved
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I made one modular 3d printed enclosure, idk how many people have used it and it’s kind of old now, but it’s definitely possible
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The filament arrived! I got super excited and almost started printing with the wrong nozzle on the printer 
to change the nozzle on the Bambu, you need to change the whole hotend assembly. I didn’t realise that to just swap the hotend/nozzle, you need to take the fan, heater cartridge and thermistor off the old assembly and put it on the new one 
so I think I’ll be ordering some more parts just to make nozzle swaps a bit easier.
The first print went awesome, this 0.8mm nozzle is certainly not here to fuck spiders soooo thicccc.
Printing these mold sections at 0.4mm layer height and 1.2mm extrusion width. Each section is 150x180mm and there are 24 sections in total to complete the top and bottom halves of the mold.
I’m printing the segments with no top or bottom layers, but the slicer imagines perimeters that are essentially contour lines for each layer.
Every hole that I might want to drill into these decks has been included into the mold design, so that once a deck has been pressed, before I take it out of the mold, I can drill all the necessary holes.
I learned from Chris at Good Roads in one of his videos (maybe this one →
My Best 3D Printed Skateboard Mold Yet! - YouTube ) that these hole details can get lost or just end up floating between the infill pattern. This was definitely happening with some of my holes, so I added modifiers in the slicer to boost the infill around where my holes were necessary.
There are also modifiers placed over the 4 mounting holes for each section which add top and bottom layers to the flanges of the screw holes for me to screw the sections to a piece of ply or something.
There is a second flatter piece on the printer now and then i’m gonna chuck a big boy on before I go to bed. The perimeters on this one pretty much make up a solid face, and there’s just shy of 500 grams of filament in this one piece 
I decided at the last minute to beef up my print settings a bit, so my estimate of 4kg of filament isn’t gonna be enough. I’ve ordered another 2kg and that should be just enough.
Loving this build so far!
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Only just noticed this now.
To do that i’d need to make the box bigger, just for the sake of aesthetics. It’s a hard no from me. The top box is already bordering being too big and it’s gonna be a squeeze to fit what I want in there.
This build doesn’t need to tick any aesthetic boxes for me, it’s about trying out things that i’ve wanted to try and making a utilitarian urban emtb.
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Looks so tiny in that monstrous man hand.
Why the stringy contours instead of a solid roof or no roof at all? Will you be glassing over the honeycomb surface?
Because the stringy contours were seemingly difficult to remove nicely
To add 2 layers of roof was gonna add at least 50% more filament and I just really don’t see any benefit.
The intention is to have an open mold. If i could get rid of the contours easily/nicely, I would. No surface will be applied
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Lol gotcha. CAD be tripping
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The bottom mold finished printing and i have moved on to the top mold. It would seem that the top mold is gonna take a little more filament than I anticipated and I’m probably gonna need to order even more filament that will take me up to 7-8kg of filament.
But it will be worth it.
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UM, so forgive my ignorance ,the images this brought to mind will haunt me. Is this a common saying? Because now i have images(THANKS) of you randy,drunk,chasing those big ass spiders you have down there with a bottle of lube and some insects as a love offering . When a spider is big enough to fuck ,im done! I dont care how good aussie spider poontang is ,this is nightmare fuel.
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Haha, yes it is in Australia. Particularly amongst blue collar working class Aussies.
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Haha yes it is a common saying here in Aus. See below from Urban Dictionary
Not here to Fuck Spiders
Australian slang. The term is derived from and is another way in saying, “not here to fuck around. I am here to get the job done”.” Stop wasting time we have things to do”.
It also can be used as declaration that a person has arrived at place of work or sporting team etc…with set of goals and is determined to meet them.
Can be used as reply to obvious question.
Also can be used around women and children as “not here to fornicate with arachnids’"
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not heard it used in the literal sense ever
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@Arzamenable check this shit out, they made a movie out of it
It actually looks like it might be good
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